Page 336 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

334 NortherN MyaNMar Bhamo and around
AYEYARWADY RIVER TRIPS
The Ayeyarwady River north of mandalay sees far fewer visitors than the stretch to Bagan.
although the scenery is largely flat – save for the brief drama of the “second defile”, where the
hills close in and the river deepens and narrows (see p.335) – the journey between Bhamo and
mandalay offers more scope for interacting with local people, as well as the opportunity to
jump ship at some interesting and little-visited spots en route.
The river north of Bhamo has been closed to foreigners since fighting between the
government and the Kachin Independence army flared up in 2011. Since you aren’t allowed to
get to Bhamo by road (see p.333), the easiest way to do the whole available route is to fly into
Bhamo then take the boat downriver; the cheapest is to take a train to Katha (via naba
– pronounced “na-bar”), then travel upriver to Bhamo and back again by boat.
Three types of boat ply this stretch of the river: government-run IWT ferries, privately
operated fast boats (both of which run regularly year-round), and a handful of luxury riverboats
organized by upmarket tour operators (see p.30).
IWT FERRIES
The journey by IWT ferry from Bhamo to mandalay ($12 on deck, $60 in a cabin) takes around
thirty hours when water levels are high – during the dry season, the boats moor each night to
avoid hitting the sandbanks and the journey will take longer. Shwegu, Katha and
Kyaukmyaung are the main stops of interest to visitors. There are three departures each week
in either direction, though the schedule can be erratic – as long as you have plenty of time,
these boats are a great way to experience the river. The cabins, which are small rooms with
two bed-like platforms and a small table, offer more privacy and a little more comfort, but
8 restrict both your view and your opportunities to mingle with locals.
FAST BOATS
Special Express boats depart Bhamo every morning for Katha, stopping at Shwegu en route.
Between Katha and mandalay the boats stop at Tigyaing, Tagaung and Kyaukmyaung. Seating
is usually on hard wooden benches under an awning, where you may be subjected to a
Burmese pop music marathon. Food is available at most stops, and while the service is faster
than the IWT boats, it’s good to be prepared for delays.

GettING aroUND aND toUrS
By tuk-tuk A tuk-tuk to the IWT dry-season jetty or to the To find him, walk north from the clocktower and you’ll
airport costs K2000. soon see an English sign pointing down a side road to the
By bicycle Bikes (K2000/day) are available to rent from U left. Sein Win’s house is a short way down this road. With a
Ko Lay’s shop (T09 4701 7296), which is down the alley little notice, between November and February he can
opposite the Grand Hotel. arrange boat trips to Thein Pa Hill – and there’s a chance of
Tours U Sein Win (T09 256 350 518) speaks excellent seeing dolphins on the way.
English and can guide you around Bhamo for K10,000/day.
aCCoMMoDatIoN
Bhamo’s three hotels offer a wide selection of rooms and are all reasonably comfortable – good news if you’ve just
disembarked from a long boat journey.
★ Friendship Hotel Let Wae Thone Dara St T074 Grand Hotel Sar Tite St (sometimes called Post
50095, Ekhinhtwemon@gmail.com. The most basic Office St) T074 50317. Unusually for Bhamo, the
rooms here cost $10 per person, have a/c and shared Grand has only three types of room: standard twins come
bathrooms and sell out quickly; all other categories are en with a/c and bathrooms; the next best cost $5 more but
suite. Standard rooms have showers, but you can upgrade if don’t seem to offer any advantage; and the upgraded
you’d rather have a bathtub. There’s a karaoke lounge $40 suites come with nice bathtubs. No discount for
downstairs, but thankfully the noise from this doesn’t single occupancy. $25
reach the upper floors. In the morning, make sure you take Hotel Paradise 36 Shwe Kyaung Kone T074 50136,
advantage of the breakfast buffet on the top-floor terrace, Ehotelparadisebanmaw@gmail.com. The newest
as it’s astonishingly varied and extensive. $20 hotel in town has a range of clean, comfortable rooms

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