Page 337 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

Bhamo to Katha NortherN MyaNMar 335
and is based a short walk south of the town centre. suite, apart from the very cheapest rooms that share
The spacious $15 singles and $25 twins and doubles bucket showers (from $7). All rooms are equipped with
(with king-size beds) offer good value. All are en a/c. $14
eatING
After dark, Bhamo’s centre of gravity shifts from the waterfront to the food stalls on Bogyoke Street, but across town most
places close down by 9.30pm.
Arthan Strand Rd. This airy teahouse is the only place in town – even if the chef shows a rather Burmese
in Bhamo with views over the river. The kitchen serves enthusiasm for oil. Unfortunately, despite its location,
up the usual teahouse menu: noodles, fried things and there’s no view of the river from the dining room.
endless cups of tea and coffee. Any attempt to speak Daily 9am–9pm.
English causes more than the usual confusion, so you ★ Sky Beer Bar Thi Ri St T074 50727. Around the
may have to point at what other tables have to order. corner from the Friendship Hotel, this cavernous and
Daily 6am–7pm. popular Sagaing restaurant-cum-beer-hall has barbecued
Blue Sea Near Strand Rd T09 650 4090. Housed in a skewers at K300–1000, dishes from K2000 (meat dishes
grand colonnaded building that’s clearly visible at the end mostly K3500) and Western favourites like chips, along
of a short road, this Chinese and Kachin restaurant is a with draught beer and stout to wash them down. Daily
reliable place, with most dishes around the K3000 mark. 9am–9pm.
The draught beer (K750) and stout (K950) don’t hurt, Sut Ngai Bogyoke St. A few blocks east of Theindawgyi
either. Daily 7am–9pm. Pagoda, this Kachin restaurant serves traditional dishes
Sein Sein Strand Rd T074 50031. With Myanmar including sipa (steamed vegetables with herbs) and
Beer on tap and an extensive menu of stir-fried dishes chicken and pork steamed in banana leaves. Daily 8
(from K2500), this is one of the best Chinese restaurants 9am–9pm.
DIreCtory
Banks There are several banks with ATMs and including AGD Bank and CB Bank opposite Theindawgyi
exchange facilities on Sinphu Shin and Bogyoke streets, Pagoda.

Bhamo to Katha
The main spectacle along the Ayeyarwady between Bhamo and Katha is the second
defile, where the river narrows to just 90m across and flows through a tight S-bend.
Towards the western end of the defile, a parrot’s head is painted on the cliffs – when
the water rises to touch the bird’s beak, the river currents are judged to be too strong
for certain craft to continue upstream. The three Ayeyarwady defiles are extremely
deep, and naga – the local equivalent of Scotland’s Loch Ness monster – are said to lurk
in the river’s depths.
The most interesting place to stop along this stretch of the river is Shwegu, where
there is a mysterious island pagoda complex.

Shwegu

Spread along the Ayeyarwady River’s southern bank, SHWEGU sees few foreign visitors.
Those who do disembark here are either on their way to Shwe Baw Kyun on the island
of Kyun Daw, where hundreds of pagodas in varying states of decay picturesquely
cover the island’s southeastern tip, or they are searching for pottery workshops in the
town’s dusty backstreets.
The main road runs a block inland of the river, and the main pottery district is
further inland again, although most activity takes place behind fences and in backyards.
The pots, some painted with colourful flower designs, are displayed in shops on the
main road.

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