Page 342 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

340 NortherN MyaNMar Katha to Mandalay
IRRAWADDY DOLPHINS
despite its name, the Irrawaddy dolphin can be found in estuaries, rivers and coastal waters
from the Bay of Bengal to the Great Barrier Reef. although not a true river dolphin – they’re
related to killer whales – subpopulations do live in several Southeast asian rivers, with one
group eking out an existence in the turbid waters of the ayeyarwady.
While there are many stories of the dolphins cooperating with fishermen, the use of gill- and
drag-nets – and even illegal electro-fishing by rogue fishermen using car batteries – has seen
Myanmar’s dolphin population drop alarmingly, and CItES lists the ayeyarwady’s dolphins as
critically endangered.
In 2005, the government established a protected area for the dolphins in a 68km stretch of
the river between Kyaukmyaung and Mingun, banning certain types of fishing nets and the
use of mercury in riverside gold mines. While Irrawaddy dolphin numbers initially showed a
slight recovery, they’re now facing a new threat due to overfishing, with just an estimated 62
individuals left in 2017. nonetheless, if you spend much time on the ayeyarwady ferries you
may occasionally see a rounded grey head poking above the water, and you’ll know they’re
still holding on against the odds.

Kyaukmyaung

74km north of Mandalay, KYAUKMYAUNG is the last major stop on the way south.
From the jetty, the main pottery area of Ngwe Ngein is 1.5km south along the riverside,
8 just north of the Radana Thinga Bridge. Kyaukmyaung is a sleepy little place, and save
for the potteries and a few pagodas that were badly cracked in a 2012 earthquake,
there’s little to occupy you – which is just as well, as the nearest accommodation for
foreigners is 17km west in Shwebo (see below).
While Kyaukmyaung’s workshops produce a variety of earthenware jars, the most
recognizable are the large Martaban jars that were used for centuries by Mon merchants in
their Indian Ocean trade – also known as “Ali Baba jars” after their cameo in Ali Baba and
the Forty Thieves. In shady huts set back from the riverside, potters can be seen shaping the
jars using foot-turned wheels, later firing them in low brick kilns fuelled by rice husks.

arrIVaL aND DePartUre KyaUKMyaUNG
By bus Buses for Shwebo (1hr) and Mandalay (3hr) depart By boat Slow boats pull in at Kyaukmyaung (northbound
until mid-afternoon from near the market. on Mon, Thurs and Sat; southbound on Sat, Tues and Thurs)
By motorbike taxi A motorbike taxi to Shwebo will cost – ask at the IWT office opposite the jetty for times.
K3000–5000, depending on how late you arrive in Southbound fast boats pass through Kyaukmyaung around
Kyaukmyaung and how much luggage you have. 2–4pm, but don’t always pull in – you may need to take a
By tuk-tuk Tuk-tuks to Shwebo (1hr; K700) leave long-tail out to join the boat midstream. Northbound fast
hourly until 3pm, and drivers usually wait to meet boats pass through at around 7–9am. On all services, it’s
each boat. possible to buy tickets on board.

Shwebo and around

SHWEBO (“Golden Leader”) was a village known as Moksobo (“Leader of Hunters”)
until 1752. Following the collapse of the Taungoo dynasty, the village chief
Alaungpaya established Burma’s final Konbaung dynasty, with himself as king and
the renamed Shwebo as his capital. The dynasty survived until 1885, but the capital
moved to Sagaing on Alaungpaya’s death in 1760. Today, only a concrete reproduction
of the palace at Shwebon Yadana and a wide moat almost surrounding the town centre
hint at its glorious past.
Best known for its thanaka, said to be the best in the country, Shwebo is rarely visited
by foreigners. When leaving the station, you may not find a crowd of motorcycle taxis

310-355_Myanmar_B2_Ch8.indd 340 30/06/17 2:21 pm