Page 347 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

Monywa and around NortherN MyaNMar 345
landscape – it’s more understated than the nearby Maha Bodhi Tataung, but equally
memorable. Hundreds of cave-shrines were cut into the hillside here between the
fourteenth and eighteenth centuries – some sources put the number of shrines at
exactly 492, although others claim there are actually more than double that. Many of
the “caves” are tiny, with room for just a single Buddha image; others are larger,
decorated with fine Jataka murals (bring a torch) rivalling anything in Bagan, and still
retaining much of their original colour after two hundred-plus years.
Getting to the caves is part of the fun. Visiting by hired car from Monywa (around
K50,000), you’ll pass the chintzy Shwetaung U Pagoda, worth a stop for its sweeping
river and countryside views. Alternatively, hire a boat from the jetty on Strand Rd
(K3000 one-way) to cross the Chindwin to bustling Nyaungbin village, from where
you can pick up a jeep to take you to the caves ($20 including wait time).
arrIVaL aND toUrS MoNyWa aND aroUND
Monywa is easy enough to get to. Some people choose to visit it as a day-trip from Bagan, but in truth it’s a bit too far out
to make the journey worthwhile.
By bus The bus station is about 1km south of the centre, and plus regular but slower and uncomfortable pick-ups.
you can count on around K1000 for the ride by motorbike Destinations Homalin (daily; 9hr); Hsipaw (3 daily; 11hr);
taxi from here into town. Heading to Pakokku (3hr) Mandalay (hourly; 3hr 30min); Pyin Oo Lwin (4 daily; 7hr);
and Nyaung U (4hr), there are a couple of daily minibuses Shwebo (hourly; 3hr).

CHINDWIN RIVER TRIPS 8
Monywa is the major port on the Chindwin River, the main tributary of the ayeyarwady that
runs north from here for almost 1000km. Cruises along the Chindwin offer a chance to see a
part of Myanmar still virtually untouched by tourism, striking deep into the Sagaing region
and following the river as it runs close to the Indian border.
a number of luxury cruises run regularly along the Chindwin, particularly in later July/august
directly after the monsoon, when water levels are high. The main vessel is the RV Pandaw
(Wpandaw.com), a luxury colonial-style vessel; seven-day cruises are run year-round between
Monywa and Homalin, flying into Homalin and then heading back downriver. It’s a memorable
experience, although expensive, with prices starting at around $2800 per person (including flight).
Longer (ten- to eleven-night) and even pricier cruises are also available on other vessels – such as
the Orcaella (Wbelmond.com), Paukan (Wpaukan.com) and Ananda (Wsanctuaryretreats.com),
which start from Mandalay and include a trip up and down the Chindwin before depositing
passengers at Bagan. Cruises typically stop at (heading north) the riverside towns of Kani, Mingin,
Moktaw, Kalewa (Kalay), Mawleik and Sittaung before reaching Homalin; journeys ending in Bagan
usually visit Kani and Mingin on their way back down the river.
an alternative to an organized cruise is to arrange an independent trip, staying in
guesthouses and travelling on local cargo boats, which stop at all the main riverside
settlements. Travel permits are no longer required, but it’s possible that officials in remote
upriver towns might not be aware of this.
Cargo ferries chug up the Chindwin river as far as Homalin, with occasional ferries all the
way up to Khamti in Kachin State – an adventurous journey with minimal facilities. you will
sleep on the deck and must bring your own food and drink. Boats dock in Monywa on the
river at the jetty, a short walk southwest of the centre, and you can buy tickets from the tables
set up along Strand road. MGrG (T09 3333 2581) is a good operator. Their “ticket office” is the
table with the rainbow-coloured umbrella, located under a tree covered in creepers and with a
few little Buddha shrines.
departure times are very flexible, but in general boats leave Monywa for Homalin daily at
4am. The journey takes around two days and costs K36,000. In Homalin you can change for
Khamti (K20,000), which is another day’s travel upriver. Journey times are always quicker
coming back downriver, but even so you should always be prepared for it to take longer than
expected due to delays. Simple accommodation is available in both Homalin and Khamti.

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