Page 351 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

Myitkyina and the far north NortherN MyaNMar 349
The Ayeyarwady confluence
• 40km north of Myitkyina • Daily during daylight hours • Free; camera fee K1000, parking K300 • A motorbike taxi from
Myitkyina (1hr 30min each way) costs K15,000
North of Myitkyina, a good road winds for around 30km through a series of modern
Kachin villages. The road then branches: the right fork, closed to the public, leads to
the site of the Myitsone Dam (see box below); the left road leads a few kilometres
further north to the Ayeyarwady confluence, where the Mali Kha and N’mai Kha rivers
meet to form Myanmar’s most important artery. Despite the site’s geographical
importance, it is a fairly low-key spot with simple restaurants set up on the silt beach
overlooking the confluence.
On top of the riverbank is a reproduction Kachin longhouse, and around the bend
are the ravaged remains of an artisanal gold-panning operation. When the dam project
was confirmed, locals flocked here to extract all the precious metals they could before
the area was flooded. The minor gold rush has now subsided, leaving the bank pocked
with deep holes.
On the way to the confluence, your driver may suggest a brief diversion to Jaw
Bum (pronounced “boom”), a hill with a concrete tower on top from which you can
look out over the trees. It’s not the most exciting sight, but it’s close to the route
and it’s free.
arrIVaL aND DePartUre MyItKyINa aND aroUND
At the time of research, foreigners were only allowed to travel in and out of Myitkyina by plane or train. Following weather
damage in 2016, the authorities were obliged to repair parts of the existing railway line, and train journeys are now 8
smoother and faster than they used to be – though they’re still quite slow and bumpy overall.

By plane Myitkyina’s airport is 5km west of the town (7 weekly; 2hr 20min).
centre. On arrival, don’t worry if you’re herded out without By train Myitkyina’s railway station is right in the centre of
your bags – luggage reclaim is in a shed outside the gates. town. The ticket office is open from 7am to 9.30pm, and it’s
Most airline offices are on Pyi Taung Su Rd and Swon Para possible to buy tickets one day in advance. While basic
Bwan St, as are travel agencies such as Sun Far (daily English is spoken at the station, the timetables are all in
9am–5pm; T074 23392). Burmese. There are three or four services a day.
Destinations Bhamo (2 weekly; 30min); Mandalay Destinations Hopin (4hr); Mandalay (16–22hr); Naba
(8 weekly; 45min–2hr); Putao (5 weekly; 50min); Yangon (9hr 30min); Shwebo (19hr).

DAM NATION: THE MYITSONE DAM PROJECT
the Myitsone Dam on the ayeyarwady is one of Myanmar’s most controversial engineering
projects. When completed, the 140m-high dam is expected to flood 447sq km and force the
relocation of 11,800 local people, and prevent fertile sediment from washing down the river to
Myanmar’s “rice bowl”, the ayeyarwady delta. Critics also point out that the site sits upon the
unstable Sagaing fault line, and that, as with many of Myanmar’s mooted mega-projects, a
foreign nation will reap the benefits while leaving Myanmar to deal with the environmental
and social costs – in return for Chinese finance, much of the electricity generated will be
exported to yunnan province.
in 2011, President thein Sein announced that the project would be suspended for his
term of office, but his successor has since not renewed that commitment. for now the site
is sealed off from view, and locals fear that construction is continuing in secret using
Chinese workers. opposition to the dam has led to skirmishes between the kia and
government troops.
the road from Myitkyina to the ayeyarwady confluence passes Aung Myint Tha, a new
village with eerie rows of suburban-style housing that was constructed for local people
who will be displaced by the dam. the village has not been a notable success – today,
most inhabitants continue to work the fields near their old village, where the land is
more fertile.

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