Page 353 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

Myitkyina and the far north NortherN MyaNMar 351
JUNGLE FEVER
hundreds of rare and endemic species inhabit the mist-cloaked hills of northern Myanmar,
where the humid jungles of the indian subcontinent meet the southern slopes of the
himalayas. the same geographic and political factors that have prevented commercial
exploitation have also hampered attempts to catalogue and protect what’s out there, so
Myanmar in the early twenty-first century finds itself home to some of the best preserved,
most extensive, and least understood wilderness areas in Southeast asia. despite the
challenges, a select few scientists have managed to get in since the first British surveys in the
late nineteenth century.
Botanist and spy Frank Kingdon Ward made ten epic journeys across northern Burma (as it
was then known) between 1914 and 1956, collecting seeds from unknown plants as he went.
he survived multiple bouts of malaria, “hordes of famished leeches”, and impalement on a
bamboo spike in his hunt for new species.
american zoologist Alan Rabinowitz also travelled widely through kachin State and
Sagaing division in the 1990s to establish a series of nature reserves, including the hkakabo
razi national Park, the country’s largest. his main objective has been to preserve the habitat of
Myanmar’s vanishing tigers.
Myanmar’s recent political and economic opening has led to renewed fears that commercial
interests may trump environmental concerns. in 2013, a joint BBC-Smithsonian team led by
Chris Wemmer undertook a series of televised expeditions to document the wildlife in
remote areas, hoping to persuade Myanmar’s government to establish further reserves before
logging, mining or agricultural interests move in. although they encountered a wide range of
species, some new to science, things happen slowly in Myanmar and it remains to be seen
whether their work will bear fruit. Setting up a new reserve is also only the start – lax 8
enforcement has sometimes seen miners and hunters encroaching on supposedly protected
areas with impunity.

★ Kiss Me Zaw Jun Rd T074 20621. Hidden between someone to write down a few dishes in advance), but it’s
Hsu Taung Pye and the river, Kiss Me has a great terrace and said to be the best Kachin restaurant in town. Daily lunch
some extra-enthusiastic tea boys. The menu covers and dinner.
everything from Kachin to Malaysian dishes, with some Orient Ayer Rd T09 420 184 941. Next to the YMCA, this
delicious snacks as well – their “rolls” (paratha with various friendly little restaurant has a fairly broad menu – the
stuffings, from K1000) are particularly good. Daily Kachin owner worked in Japan for some years – with good
6am–9pm. kimchi fried rice (K2000) and a range of other dishes at
Maliku South of Manau Park. You’ll need some help both similar prices. Takeaway lunchboxes can be ordered for
finding this place and ordering once you get here (ask K3500. Mon–Sat 7am–9pm, Sun noon–9pm.
DIreCtory
Bank The usual suspects are scattered around San Road, which has an ATM.
town. One of the most central is AYA Bank on Aung

Indawgyi Lake

Myanmar’s largest lake, beautiful but remote Indawgyi is well off the tourist trail. The
few travellers who do make the long journey find a peaceful natural environment, with
opportunities for hiking in the hills to the east, kayaking across the lake and cycling to
several small villages. At the time of research, work to resurface the road from the
railhead town of HOPIN was also almost complete.
The lake is part of the 736-square-kilometre Indawgyi Lake Wildlife Sanctuary,
established in 1999 to protect the area’s birds and animals, which include several
endangered species as well as gibbons, gaur, elephants and clouded leopards.
At certain times of year your fellow visitors are as likely to be birdwatchers and
field biologists as backpackers (December to March is the main birdwatching season).

310-355_Myanmar_B2_Ch8.indd 351 30/06/17 2:21 pm