Page 48 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

46 BASICS Travelling wiTh children
LUCK BIRDS
Travelling around Myanmar, you’ll sooner or later notice the cages set up by roadsides and
around towns (particularly outside temples) stuffed full of frantically fluttering and chirruping
birds. These are so-called luck birds, the unfortunate victims of a popular Buddhist practice
whereby birds are captured by local villagers and farmers to be purchased and set free by those
seeking to acquire merit by saving a life. The act of buying and freeing a caged bird may appear
selfless and spiritually fulfilling, but the practice is far from humane. Many birds die (or are fatally
injured) in captivity, while numerous endangered species are threatened by the luck bird trade
– common-or-garden species cost a dollar or so, but this rises significantly for larger and more
exotic captives. lucky for seller and buyer, perhaps, but certainly not for the birds themselves.

Traditional Burmese puppets also make fun Fakes are not unknown, though – buy from a
souvenirs. Many are made in Mandalay, where you’ll reputable dealer or risk being ripped off.
find the biggest selection and best prices. Sand
paintings are a particular speciality of Bagan, and
are sold by local artists and hawkers at all the major Travelling with
temples. Many feature copies of Bagan’s ancient
temple murals, although you’ll also find pieces in a children
more contemporary style. The detail and workman-
ship are often superb, and prices are a snip, with Few Westerners travel with children in
smaller pieces going for just a few dollars. They’re Myanmar, but if you do you’ll be guaran-
also easily transportable since you can roll them up teed a very warm welcome, with locals
without destroying them. going out of their way to make a fuss of
look out, too, for the pyit taing daung (or pyit your kids and help in any way they can.
taing htaung). One of Myanmar’s most distinctive having said that, although you can be guaran-
traditional toys, these odd-looking dolls resemble teed plenty of social interaction, specific kids’
a papier-mâché easter egg with an oversized attractions are pretty thin on the ground, given
smiley face painted on it. They’re also weighted that most of the country’s major draws are essen-
inside, meaning that however much you bash tially cultural. The generally long journeys
them, they never fall down, rather like the involved in getting from a to B are a further
western weeble – hence their name meaning “up drawback, while parents of fussy eaters may also
whatever thrown”. struggle, especially outside major tourist centres.
Travelling with babies and toddlers is a real
Clothes, textiles and jewellery challenge. You’ll struggle to find formula milk,
nappies or baby food (although discreet breast-
Beautiful cotton and, especially, silk fabrics and feeding is perfectly acceptable), and you’ll also
textiles are widely available. Mandalay is again the need to be aware of the potentially serious effects
main centre of production, although many of the of heat, sunstroke, dehydration and the risk of
country’s ethnic minorities also produce their own malaria (and other diseases) (see p.38). and be
distinctive weavings. a longyi (see box, p.7) makes aware that, should anything go wrong, medical
a practical and portable souvenir, available either in facilities in the country are rudimentary at best.
inexpensive, functional cotton or more lavish silk. in
addition, skirts, scarves, shirts and fabric shoulder Activities
bags can all make good buys.
Myanmar has an extraordinary wealth of natural Older kids may enjoy exploring the ruins of Bagan
minerals and precious stones. Jade (most of it from by bike or in a horse-drawn carriage (especially
the far north of the country) is very much in if you can dress it up in suitably indiana Jones
evidence, from simple traditional bangles through style) and might enjoy a boat trip on inle lake,
to chintzy statuettes and other bric-a-brac – and possibly a day trek through local villages.
although note that buying jade is fraught with The beaches are another possible draw, although
ethical complications (see box, p.352). There’s also there’s not a lot in terms of specific child-friendly
plenty of gold and silver jewellery, as well as activities apart from a few watersports (for
precious stones including rubies and sapphires. older kids who are also confident swimmers).

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