Page 49 - The Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma)

Travel essenTials BASICS 47
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
The question of whether or not it was right to visit Myanmar was for many years an emotive
issue. in 1995, aung san suu Kyi’s national league for Democracy (nlD) called for an
international tourist boycott of the country, arguing that foreign visitors were putting money
directly into the pockets of the regime. Many foreigners respected this call to stay away.
Others continued to visit, saying that with care it was possible to minimize the money given
to the regime and to ensure that foreign cash still reached local communities – and also
arguing that plunging the country into complete isolation simply caused further hardship for
the long-suffering Burmese. Following tentative reforms, in 2010 the nlD softened its stance,
saying that it opposed only package and cruise tourism, and in May 2012 it dropped its
boycott entirely.
With the nlD now in power, it’s safe to say that the ethical dilemma has reduced
significantly, if not entirely vanished. nevertheless, despite the advent of democracy (or at
least something reasonably close) in 2015, the former ruling military elite and their business
cronies still control large swathes of the economy, including numerous hotels (many built
using forced labour on stolen land), as well as banks and airlines. Take a flight, withdraw
money from an aTM or stay at one of many of the country’s upmarket hotels and you’ll be
putting money, however indirectly, into their bank accounts.
it’s not an ideal situation, although now not much different from that in, say, neighbouring
Cambodia, laos and Thailand, whose often repressive rulers and associated cronies also derive
significant income from tourism. it’s also worth remembering that crony companies employ
thousands of ordinary Burmese, untainted by the old regime, whose livelihoods depend upon
their continued employment – indeed, post-democracy some crony companies have been
praised for being model employers, paying above-average wages as well as contributing
significant amounts of tax to nlD government coffers.
as such, the best policy is to follow the usual ground rules of ethical tourism in asia.
staying in local guesthouses, eating in local restaurants and hiring local guides helps keep
your money in the communities you’re visiting, while spreading your money around rather
than spending it all in one place (when shopping, for example) is also helpful, and travelling
by bus or local boat is better than flying or taking a tourist cruise. Bear in mind, too, that the
vast majority of visitors to Myanmar confine themselves to Yangon, Mandalay, inle lake and
Bagan. visiting one or two more off-the-beaten-track destinations not only offers you the
chance to escape the coach-party hordes but also brings money into parts of the country that
have yet to enjoy the fruits of the recent tourism boom.

in Mandalay, kids may enjoy the puppet perfor- directions are usually given in relation to local
mances at Mandalay Marionettes or the Minta landmarks rather than using street names and
Theater, as well as the dances of the Moustache house numbers.
Brothers (though the satire at the latter will likely go
over children’s heads). sporty youngsters will also Costs
get a kick out of just hanging out with the locals,
maybe joining in an impromptu football match or Accommodation (see p.32) is likely to be your main
trying a spot of chinlone (see box, p.43) – locals will cost in Myanmar, with even the cheapest rooms
be delighted to take them under their wing. costing around $15–25 and upmarket lodgings
going for $150 or considerably more. Food is much
more affordable – you can get a meal on the streets
Travel essentials or in local cafés for just a couple of dollars, with
mains in more touristy places costing around $3–5
Addresses (although equally some top-end places charge
prices on a par with europe or north america). Bus
The words “road” and “street” are used inter- and train tickets are also relatively (if not exception-
changeably throughout Myanmar. in some towns ally) cheap – an express bus from Yangon to Bagan,
streets are clearly signed, whereas in other places for example, costs around $15–20. Flying is
signage can be nonexistent. as elsewhere in asia, obviously much pricier but not prohibitively

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