Page 20 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)
P. 20

16 ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL SIGHTS  6 MORE ANCIENT SITES TO RIVAL STONEHENGE


































                                                             Concentric circles of the Sonnenobservatorium, built by one of
                                                             Europe’s oldest civilizations
                  Stones of Ales Stenar, on a picturesque grassy headland looking out                    Ancient megalithic standing stones in a sea of verdant greenery
                  to sea, near Kåseberga                      Sonnen-                                    at Carnac
                  Ales Stenar,                                observatorium,                             Carnac, France


                  Sweden                                      Germany                                     NEED TO KNOW

                                                                                                                            6/*5&%
                                                                                                          LOCATION On the Atlantic   ,*/(%0.  -JMMF
                    NEED TO KNOW                               NEED TO KNOW                               Coast of southern Brittany,
                                                                                                                                   1BSJT
                                                                                                          Carnac is 88 miles (140 km)
                    LOCATION Ales Stenar is                    LOCATION The site is beside                from Nantes and 300 miles   $"3/"$  4USBTCPVSH
                    located near the fishing   /PSUI           the town of Goseck in Germany  /PSUI       (500 km) west of Paris
                                                                               4FB
                    village of Kåseberga in   4FB  -VMFB       ACCESS Open Apr–Oct:   )BNCVSH             ACCESS Restricted in   /BOUFT  '3"/$&  48*5;&3-"/%
                    southern Sweden
                                                               10am–6pm; Nov–Mar:       #FSMJO  10-"/%    summer to reduce site erosion   #BZ PG
                    ACCESS Free                                11am–4pm     /&5)&3-"/%4  40//&/                           #JTDBZ     -ZPO  *5"-:
                                  /038":     '*/-"/%                                0#4&37"503*6.         DAYTIME
                    DAYTIME                                    DAYTIME        %PSUNVOE                    TEMPERATURES Jan:   #PSEFBVY   .BSTFJMMF
                    TEMPERATURES       48&%&/                  TEMPERATURES                               48°F (9°C); Apr: 55°F (13°C);
                    Jan: 36°F (2°C);   (ÚUFCPSH  4UPDLIPMN     Jan: 37°F (3°C);   #&-(*6.  (&3."/:  $;&$)  Jul: 68°F (20°C); Oct: 61°F (16°C)  41"*/  .FEJUFSSBOFBO
                    Apr: 63°F (l7°C);                          Apr: 45°F (7°C);             3&16#-*$                                    4FB
                    Jul: 64°F (18°C);   .BMNP  "-&4 45&/"3     Jul: 68°F (20°C);      4UVUUHBSU
                    Oct: 48°F (9°C)                            Oct: 48°F (9°C)  '3"/$&
                                                                                             "6453*"
                                                                                                         The mossy-green landscape around the town of
                                                                                                         Carnac, scattered with thousands of ancient
                  At first sight, Ales Stenar might look like a henge,   Four concentric circles spotted in a wheatfield at   stones, makes this the very picture of the Celtic
                  but it is in fact oval, not circular, the stones at   Goseck in 1991 led two archaeologists to start   twilight, although the Neolithic culture that
                  each end markedly larger than the rest. Floating   investigating 11 years later. They found the   created it predates the Celts. Made from local
                  on a wave of green in an ocean of grassy    mound, ditch, and the remains of two palisades   stone, these mysterious rough-shaped rocks were
                  headland lapped by the Baltic Sea, this is the   of a Neolithic wooden henge, like many seen   erected around 4500 BC. The standing stones
                  most significant of Sweden’s thousand or more   across Europe, except this one was 7,000 years   (menhirs) are up to 21 ft (6.5 m) tall and some are
                  “ship settings” – rings of standing stones in the   old. Research has revealed that it may have been   in rows, such as the Ménec and Kermario
                  shape of a boat, with the large stone acting as   a kind of solar observatory – the earliest known in   alignments. There are also groups of stone slabs
                  the prow, and another as the stern with a small   Europe. The henge was rebuilt using more than   known as dolmens, and mounds of earth called
                  “rudder” behind. The stones probably date from   2,000 hand-hewn wooden posts to create two   tumuli – both burial sites. The stones were clearly
                  the Viking period – a clay pot and a few burnt   rows of palisades and three gates. The southeast   central to the culture and may have had some
                  human bones found on the site have been     and southwest gates catch the sun at midday on   astrological significance. The Musée de
                  traced back to AD 600.                      the winter solstice, which is why this day was   Préhistoire de Carnac tells visitors all there is to
                                                              chosen to open the site to the public in 2005.  know about these enigmatic stones.

                  Practical Information
                  Getting There and Around The nearest town is Ystad, which is 11 miles   Practical Information  Practical Information
                  (18 km) away and has bus services. There are frequent trains from Malmö   Getting There and Around From Berlin, it’s just over a 2-hour drive to   Getting There and Around The nearest airports are at Rennes and Nantes.
                  in Sweden, which is 45 minutes away by car. Copenhagen in Denmark also   Goseck. Alternatively, the regional Leipzig-Halle Airport has direct flights   Alternatively, you can take a train from Paris to Auray or Vannes. The stones
                  offers train services, or you can make the 1-hour journey   from Paris and Vienna. Goseck is 36 miles (60 km) away by road.   can be seen along the D196 outside Carnac. There is parking at Kermario.
                  by road. From Kåseberga, it is a short walk through fields up to the site.  When to Go You can visit the site in summer, but the winter solstice has   When to Go In summer, access to the stones is only possible by a guided
                  When to Go May to October.                  special significance.                      tour; in winter, the sites are more accessible (but subject to variation).
                  Websites www.skane.com; www.zwoje-scrolls.com/as/aleseng  Website www.himmelswege.de/101/  Websites www.megalithia.com/brittany/carnac; www.ot-carnac.fr







          US016-017_ahs_Avebury_FO.indd   16                                                                                               3/5/09   10:06:24 AM16/4/09   09:45:16
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