Page 22 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)

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ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL SIGHTS

Agrigento and

Selinunte, Sicily

ABOVE Tourists on the steps of the Propylaea, the
magnificent gateway to the Acropolis, Athens, Greece
vs the Acropolis, Athens FORGET THE ATHENS

ACROPOLIS?

The Acropolis in Athens is a potent symbol of the classical world, but the temples of Sicily, set THE BUILD-UP The word “acropolis” means
in beautiful landscapes, can be more evocative of the power and majesty of Ancient Greece “high city” in Greek, and most ancient Greek
cities had a dominant, defendable upper town.
But the monument in Athens, which sits on a
rock that towers 490 ft (150 m) above sea level,
site. It requires the better part of a day to visit the is so well known that it is simply referred to as
NEED TO KNOW
Valley of Temples and its other treasures, which the Acropolis. Its main buildings, including the
LOCATION Agrigento and include the agora (market place), shrines, catacombs, Parthenon – a temple to the goddess Athena –
Selinunte are 62 miles (100 km) 7FOJDF were built in the 5th century BC when Athens
apart in southern Sicily, Italy .JMBO sacrificial altars, a villa, museums, and a church.
Selinunte, the furthest west of Magna Graecia’s was at the height of its power.
NUMBER OF
TEMPLES *5"-: colonies, is as sun-bleached as nearby North Africa.
Agrigento: 8; Selinunte: 7 "ESJBUJD THE LETDOWN Like many famous landmarks,
3PNF 4FB This vast archaeological site was the largest in Greece
DAYTIME the Acropolis suffers from the danger of over-
/BQMFT and lies between two rivers, Belice and Modione,
TEMPERATURES
5ZSSIFOJBO anticipation, and romantic Hellenophiles may
Jan: 57°F (14°C); Apr: 59°F 4FB by the sea on the edge of a fertile plain far enough
(15°C); Jul: 75°F (24°C); 1BMFSNP *POJBO from the nearest resort, Marinella, to have remained imagine it without tourist buses and crowds or
4FB
Oct: 68°F (20°C) 4FMJOVOUF the surrounding chaotic city, but this is simply
"(3*(&/50 unspoiled. The site takes its name from selinon, the not the case. And what you see when you get
Greek word for “wild parsley,” which still grows in the there isn’t all real. The sculptured figures on the
The Acropolis in Athens, built during the Greek fields of wild flowers surrounding the monuments. Erechtheum (a temple just north of the Acropolis)
Golden Age (500–300 BC), is today such a dominant Selinunte had a short life that lasted from 650 BC are copies, and of course the fascinating
icon that many other fine Hellenic sites are often until its destruction by the Carthaginians in 409 BC, Parthenon frieze is nowhere to be seen – it
overlooked in its favor. More than 100 years before but it flourished long enough for an acropolis and has long been housed in the British Museum.
the Acropolis was built, the cities of Sicily were the seven temples to be constructed. The largest of
richest and greatest in all of Magna Graecia (Greater these is actually longer than Agrigento’s Tempio di GOING ANYWAY? The importance of the
Acropolis cannot be ignored. If you do go, be
Greece). It was here that the first large-scale temples Zeus Olimpico, but not as wide. Although the ruins
sure to visit the nearby Acropolis Museum. The
were erected and they can still be seen on the at Selinunte are not as well preserved as those at
avenues beneath the monument are a fine way
southwest coast in Agrigento’s glorious Valle dei Agrigento, these silent sentinels, by a dazzling blue
to approach it, but avoid them in the heat of day.
Templi (Valley of the Temples) and at Selinunte. sea, invite contemplation, study, and wonder.
The acropolis at Agrigento, which is known as
Akrakas in Greek, is now lost beneath the modern PRACTICAL INFORMATION
town, but a series of stunning Doric temples
remain on a ridge on the southern side of the Getting There and Around Ristorante La Pineta (www.
The airport in Palermo, Sicily’s ristorantelapinetaselinunte.it).
town, bringing the classical world to life. These
capital city, receives international Where to Stay
ancient monuments, which rise above picturesque, flights at regular intervals. It is The stylish 18th-century Villa
arcadian fields of olive and almond trees on one 130 miles (210 km) from the Athena (www.athenahotels.
side and the Mediterranean coastline on the other, airport to Agrigento and 125 miles com) is actually in the Valle dei
are a spectacular sight, especially at night, when (200 km) to Selinunte. If you are Templi at Agrigento. Hotel Garzia
traveling by car from Messina,
they are atmospherically illuminated. (www.hotelgarzia.com) in
the port for ferries across to Marinella de Selinunte has great
Of the eight monumental temples built here in mainland Italy, it is a 260-mile sea views and a good restaurant.
the 6th and 5th centuries BC, the Tempio della (420-km) trip to Agrigento and When to Go
Concordia is considered to be the best preserved a further 60 miles (100 km) on Summer can be ferociously hot,
to Selinunte.
in the world after the Theseion in Athens, and its so visit in Mar–Jun or Sep–Oct.
harmony with nature is emphasized by its warm Where to Eat Budget per Day for Two
Pretty Via Panoramica dei Templi
earthy colors, which change with the moving sun US$375 including rental car,
near Agrigento has several good
and shadows of the day. The Tempio de Hera is the restaurants. Trattoria dei Templi food, accommodations, and
most romantic of the ruins at Agrigento, while the (tel. +39 0922 403110) is one entrance fees.
uncompleted Tempio di Zeus Olimpico, which is of the best. In Marinella de Websites
Selinunte, which is near the Agrigento:
the size of a football field, was the largest Doric
Selinunte ruins, have a fresh fish www.valleyofthetemples.com;
temple ever built. Its columns included 38 giant
dish at the charming, authentic Selinunte: www.selinunte.net
human figures, one of which lies in repose on the

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