Page 18 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)

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ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL SIGHTS

FORGET
STONEHENGE?

THE BUILD-UP Stonehenge is famous, its stones
astonishingly huge, and its setting dramatic. The
summer solstice ceremony held by druids and
Avebury paganism. Even when seen from the road in a
New Agers confirms it as a cathedral to mystical
car, it is a magnificent sight.
THE LETDOWN During normal visiting hours

space, and you have to pay an entrance fee to see
vs Stonehenge you can’t touch it, you can’t wander about its
it. Located in a bleak spot, the henge has no sense
of intimacy, and offers little shelter in bad weather.
There is no museum that explores the significance
of Stonehenge, and visitor facilities are limited.
Stonehenge is one of the world’s great megalithic sights – but nearby Avebury is much
larger and has a more accessible stone circle GOING ANYWAY? Stonehenge is worth seeing,
under any circumstances. Take advantage of the
audio tour, which is included in the entrance fee.
It is possible to gain access to the stone circle on
village green. Avebury’s stones are not as huge as
NEED TO KNOW pre-paid private tours, which take place outside
those at Stonehenge, but the site is four times the visiting hours (www.english-heritage.org.uk).
LOCATION Avebury lies between size, making it the world’s largest henge.
Marlborough and Calne in
Wiltshire, 85 miles (142 km) "UMBOUJD Within a ditch which measures nearly a mile
west of London, England 0DFBO in circumference, the remaining giant gnarled
(MBTHPX &EJOCVSHI
ACCESS Circle site open /PSUI thumbs of sandstone are complemented by
all year round, free entry 4FB
DAYTIME .BODIFTUFS concrete blocks showing how the circle and its
*3&-"/% 6/*5&%
TEMPERATURES outer and inner rings once stood. It is possible that
Jan: 45°F (7°C); Apr: 57°F ,*/(%0. some stones are still underground, and some
(14°C); Jul: 70°F (21°C); "7?: -POEPO
Oct: 54°F (12°C) beneath the village which, over the centuries, has
unfortunately quarried the henge for building
materials. In fact, the entire modern history of
Crowning the skyline on treeless Salisbury Plain, Avebury is mixed up with the stones, and can be
the spectacle of Stonehenge reduces the passing explored in the local museum set up by the ABOVE Visitors at Stonehenge standing behind fencing,
traffic to a perpetual crawl. A line of coaches marmalade millionaire and amateur archaeologist admiring the ruins from a distance
disgorge load after load of snap-happy visitors. In Alexander Keiller.
fact, it is so popular that the site has to be fenced The great attraction of Avebury, however, is
off for fear of damage, putting the magnificent that, like the resident sheep, you can wander freely
stones out of bounds. To really get hands-on with among the stones, touching them and seeing if
mysterious ancient stones, and to see the world some of their mystery will rub off on you. Nobody
from a 5,000-year-old perspective, try Avebury, really knows the purpose of the stones but, like PRACTICAL INFORMATION
located 20 miles (33 km) to the north. This mystic most great constructions of early civilizations,
circle of stones, or henge, was erected around the they must have been involved in a culture that Getting There and Around Where to Stay
same time and occupies what appears to be a combined religion with the heavens and afterlife. From London, Avebury is The pub also has four cottage-
This ritual center was connected to another stone easily accessible by public style rooms available, but
transportation. It is a 1-hour tales of the rooms being
circle, the Sanctuary, just over 1 mile (2 km) away at
train ride from Paddington to inhabited by ghosts may be a
the end of the West Kennet Avenue, a path flanked Swindon. From there, bus no. 49 deterrent. The Castle and Ball
with stones. As big as Stonehenge, the Sanctuary leaves every hour for Avebury. (www.castleandball.com),
has no standing stones. Less than a mile away are However, if you rent a car, you located in nearby Marlborough,
the West Kennet Long Barrow burial chambers, so can also take in Stonehenge by is a good alternative, and also
driving via the M4. has a great restaurant.
it is possible that the avenue and the second circle
Where to Eat When to Go
had to do with journeys into the afterlife. Between
You can stop for a meal at the Visit any time from Easter to the
the henges, less than a mile to the west is Silbury 400-year-old thatched Red Lion, end of October, for a chance of
Hill, a 130-ft- (40-m-) high conical mound made at which is Avebury’s village pub. better weather.
about the same time as the henges, the purpose of The food is served from an Budget per Day for Two
which has not been fully ascertained. To the north extensive menu and includes US$390 including rental car.
snacks, sandwiches and wraps,
lies Windmill Hill, which shows signs of a Neolithic Website
and jacket potatoes (tel. +44
settlement and was probably where Avebury’s 1672 539 266). www.avebury-web.co.uk
ABOVE The stone circle standing within the boundaries of a ditch architects and builders lived.

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