Page 40 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)

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ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL SIGHTS

Borobudur

vs Angkor

ABOVE Tourists climbing the stairs to the upper level
of Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Escape the crowded temples of Angkor and head to the equally spectacular, but far less
touristy, Borobudur – one of the true wonders of the ancient Buddhist world FORGET ANGKOR?

THE BUILD-UP Angkor boasts some of the
diminishing levels and along endless corridors most jaw-dropping Buddhist monuments in
NEED TO KNOW Southeast Asia. The dozens of spectacular
embellished with wonderfully detailed scenes
LOCATION Borobudur is from Buddhist legend and cosmology. This temples here are crowned by the peerless
near Yogyakarta, on the Angkor Wat – the site’s largest monument –
island of Java, Indonesia 1)*-*11*/&4 upward journey, which leads you through three in a memorably atmospheric setting among
DATE OF areas of Buddhist cosmology, mirrors the Buddhist
. "- ":4*" 1BDJmD gnarled jungles and glass-like paddy fields.
CONSTRUCTION .FEBO 0DF B O journey towards enlightenment. You’ll pass
9th century AD 4BNBSJOEB
*/%0 /&4*" +BZBQVSB through Kamadhat, “the world of desire,” where THE LETDOWN Unfortunately, there’s no
DAYTIME
TEMPERATURES +BLBSUB #030#6%63 vivid carvings depicting human greed and passion escaping the crowds here. The days when
Jan: 79°F (26°C); Apr: 82°F &"45 5*.03 line the walls. Next comes Rupadhatu, “the world of Angkor was a remote and challenging
(28°C); Jul: 81°F (27°C); *OEJBO
Oct: 81°F (27°C) 0DF B O "6453"-*" forms,” which is decorated with scenes from the destination are sadly long gone. The temples
Buddha’s life. And on the monument’s sparsely are now firmly on the international sightseeing
decorated circular terraces, you’ll find Arupadhatu, circuit, making it hard to appreciate their majestic
architecture and profound religious significance
In the second half of the 20th century, the majestic “the world of formlessness.” As you emerge on
in anything approaching peace and quiet.
Buddhist temples at Angkor in Cambodia formed Borobudur’s uppermost level, which boasts 72
one of Asia’s most legendary – and most inaccessible Buddha statues each encased in a miniature
GOING ANYWAY? Sunrise and sunset are the
– attractions. No longer. Angkor has established stupa, an unforgettable view across the tranquil most magical hours at Angkor: not only do the
itself firmly in the mainstream of international rural heartlands of central Java and out toward monuments look their best at these times, but
tourism and draws hundreds of thousands of visitors a distant ring of hazy volcanoes will open up also the crowds are at their thinnest. Don’t try
every year. Those in search of unspoiled Buddhist before your eyes. This is every bit as unforgettable to rush your trip here – the temples cover a vast
monuments must now look elsewhere: to Burma, a setting as Angkor’s verdant jungles. area, so set aside three days or so for exploring
Sri Lanka or, for the greatest rewards, to the the site. Make sure you visit some of the
impressive stupa of Borobudur in central Java. PRACTICAL INFORMATION less-touristed outlying temples too.
Borobudur was built in the form of a gigantic
mandala – an architectural representation of the Getting There and Around Where to Stay
There are a limited number of The romantic Dusun Jogja Village
cosmos – and is one of the most spectacular
direct international flights to Inn (www.jvidusun.co.id) bills
religious monuments in Asia. It was modeled on
Yogyakarta airport, so it’s likely itself as Yogyakarta’s first
Mount Meru, a legendary mountain in Buddhist, you’ll have to fly into the city on boutique hotel. Despite its
Jain, and Hindu mythology, which is thought to a domestic service from the central location, the hotel has a
be the center of both the physical and spiritual Indonesian capital, Jakarta, or pleasantly rustic atmosphere
Denpasar on Bali. Borobudur is and boasts accommodations in
universes. The building’s statistics alone are
about 25 miles (40 km) from Javanese-style cottages. It also
staggering. An estimated 2 million cubic feet has a large pool in palm-filled
Yogyakarta, from where you can
(56,630 cubic meters) of stone were used to build hire a car, join a tour, or catch a grounds.
the ancient structure, which comprises nine levels local bus to the ancient site. When to Go
holding 504 Buddha statues and with 2,672 bas- Where to Eat Temperatures in Java are fairly
relief carvings. Unsurprisingly, Borobudur is often Yogyakarta is one of the best constant all year round, though
travel is generally more pleasant
claimed to be the world’s largest stupa and the places in the country to eat during the dry season, which is
top-notch Indonesian cuisine.
biggest ancient monument in the southern from May to September.
Try the popular Omah Dhuwur
hemisphere – only the great stupas of Sri Lanka, restaurant (tel. +62 274 374 Budget per Day for Two
built at around the same time, come close. 952), which is a little way out US$75 a day will give you a
For Buddhist pilgrims and non-Buddhist of town, but worth the trek for decent hotel and private car
tourists alike, a visit here remains a powerfully its excellent array of local dishes hire with driver to the site.
and other international and Website
uplifting experience. As you climb to the top of the
Asian-fusion offerings. www.borobudurpark.com
monument, you’ll pass through successively

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