Page 140 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Greek Islands
P. 140

5                   fishing port of Kokkári takes   and maintained network of
                            its name from the shallot­like
                                                hiking trails; paths come up
        Karlóvasi           onions once cultivated just   from Kokkári, descend to
                            inland. Today it is Sámos’s   Agios Konstandínos, and cross
        ⌂ 32 km (20 miles) W of
        Vathý               third resort after Pythagório   to Manolátes, the trailhead
                            and Votsalákia, its wind­blown   for the ascent to Profítis Ilías
        Sprawling Karlóvasi, gateway   location turned to advantage   peak (1,153 m/3,783 ft) on
        to western Sámos and the   by a nearby windsurfing   Mount Ámbelos, a five­hour
        island’s biggest town, has   school. The main west beach,   round trip. Manolátes itself is
        several districts. Néo Karlóvasi   covered in coarse pebbles, is   decidedly tourist­geared,
        was a major leather centre   often surf­battered; Calma   with upmarket souvenirs
        from the 1880s to the 1950s;   cove on the east side of town   and two very good tavernas.
        aban doned tanneries can be   is more sheltered. Nightlife
        seen by the sea in Ríva. Meséo   clusters along the north quay.
        Karlóvasi, on a hill across the         8
        river, is attractively arrayed
        around its plaza, but most   7          Potámi and Seïtáni
        visitors stay near the water­           ⌂ 34 km (21 miles) W
        front at Limín harbour, with its   Vourliótes  of Vathý
        tavernas and lively boatyard.   ⌂ 34 km (21 miles) W
        Above the port, Paleó (Áno)   of Vathý   Some 3 km (2 miles) west of
        Karlóvasi is tucked away in a           Limín, Potámi beach is the site
        wooded ravine, overlooked    Southwest of and inland from   of a Byzantine port settlement.
        by the church of Agía Triáda.   Kokkári, several hill villages   Its most substantial traces
                            perch on the northern slopes   include the 11th­century
                            of Mount Ámbelos. Though   church of Metamórfosis, the
        6                   many have been deserted,   oldest on the island, and a
                            Vourliótes is an exception,
                                                castle immediately above,
        Kokkári             thriving thanks to nearby   which can be climbed to.
                            orchards and vine yards. The   Half of Karlóvasi decamps to
        ⌂ 11 km (6 miles) W
        of Vathý   @    n Agíou   central square is among the   Potámi at weekends, but there
                            most beautiful on Sámos, and
                                                are better beaches for those
        Nikoláou; 22730 92333
                            has several tavernas.   who continue past the town,
        Built on and behind twin     Vourliótes straddles a major   off the road heading west.
        headlands, the charming   junction in the area’s mapped   Visitors park near a trailhead
                                                and walk 25 minutes to pebbly
                                                Mikró Seïtáni cove, or 1 hour
          Built on and behind twin headlands,    to long, sandy Megálo Seïtáni.
          the charming fishing port of Kokkári   There are no facilities at either
          takes its name from the shallot-like   of these beautiful beaches, but
                                                in season there may be taxi
          onions once cultivated just inland.   boats from Limín.
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