Page 135 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Greek Islands
P. 135

e                   until the king’s daughter fell
                           in love with him and opened
       Mandamádos          the gates – though Achilles
       Μανταμάδος          killed her for her treachery.   EAT
                           There is little remaining of
       ⌂ 36 km (22 miles) NW of   the ancient town, apart from
       Mytilíni   n 22530 61203   @
                           the tombs exca vated near the   Ermis
       This attractive village is known   tourist office, but its ancient   A great place to taste
       for its pottery industry and   name, Míthymna, has been   ouzo and feast on
       the adjacent Moní Taxiarhón.   revived and is used as an   mezedes such as stuffed
       The existing monastery dates   alternative to Mólyvos.   courgette flowers.
       from the 17th century and     Before 1923 over a third of   ⌂ Ermou, Mytilíni
       houses a black icon of the   the population was Muslim,   § 22510 26232
       Archangel Michael, reputedly   who built many sumptuous   ¡¡¡
       made from mud and the   town houses and graced
       blood of monks slaughtered   Mólyvos with a dozen street
       in an Ottoman raid. A bull is   fountains. The mansions, or   Balouhanas
       sacrificed here on the third   arhondiká, are influenced by   Grilled fish is the
       Sunday after Easter and its   Eastern architecture; the living   speciality at this
       meat eaten in a communal   spaces are arranged on the   taverna, which has a
       stew. Mantamádos ceramics   top floor around a central   deck over the water.
       come in a range of sizes and   stairwell, or hagiáti. One, the   ⌂ North end of
       colours, from giant pythária   Komninaki-Kralli mansion, has   the seafront, Pérama
       (olive oil containers) to smaller   fine murals upstairs, and may   § 22510 51948
       koumária (ceramic water jugs).  be visited.    ¡¡¡
                             Overlooking the town, with
                           splendid views of the Turkish   The Captain’s Table
       r                   coast, is a Byzantine kástro.   A huge range of grilled
                           Modified by the Genoese
       Mólyvos (Míthymna)  adventurer Francesco Gatelluzi   meat and fish, plus
       Μόλυβος (Μήθυμνα)   in 1373, the castle fell to the   plenty of local wine.
                           Ottomans in 1462. Restored in   ⌂ Volissós harbour
       ⌂ 61 km (38 miles) NW of   1995, it still retains its wood-  § 22530 71241
       Mytilíni   @   n 22530 71313
                           and-iron medieval door and a   ¡¡¡
       Mólyvos was the birthplace    calligraphic inscription over
       of Arion, the 7th-century-BC   the lintel. In summer, it often   Zorba the Buddha
       poet, and the site of the grave   serves as a concert venue.  A sociable place, with a
       of Palamedes, the Achaian     A boatyard operates at    tasty range of meals.
       warrior buried by Achilles.   the fishing harbour, which
       According to legend, the   remains from the days when   ⌂ Eastern seafront,
                                                    Skála Eressoú
       Greek hero besieged the city   Mólyvos was a major port.
                                                    § 22530 53777
                                                      ¡¡¡


























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