Page 218 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Greek Islands
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EXPERIENCE  The Cyclades







                                             Local crafts for sale displayed
                                             outside the charming white
                                             houses of Apollonia, Sífnos

                            6                   the main square has a good
                                                collection of embroideries
                            Sífnos              and local pottery.
              EAT           Σίφνος                Artemónas is Apollonía’s
                                                twin village. The second
                            g @ Kamáres   n www.
                            sifnos.gr           largest on Sífnos, it has
              Leonidas                          impressive Venetian houses.
           This basic, but very   Famous for its pottery, poets   The 17th-century church,
            delicious, spot is    and chefs, Sífnos has become   Ágios Geórgios tou Aféndi,
           the place for tasty   the most popular destination   contains several fine icons
           magirevtá, such as   in the western Cyclades. Visitors  from the period. The church of
          revythokeftédes (like   in their thousands flock to the   Panagía Kónhi, with its cluster
          falafel), rabbit stew and   island in summer, lured by its   of domes, was built on the site
          mastélo (lamb stew). On   charming villages, terra ced   of a temple of Artemis.
           top of this, the views   countryside dotted with     Kástro village overlooks the
          from the veranda are   ancient towers, a few Venetian   sea 3 km (2 miles) east of
           more than match the   dovecotes and long, sandy   Artemónas. The backs of its
            impressive food.  beaches. A small, hilly island, it  houses form massive outer
          ⌂ Entrance to Kástro,   is also a magnet for walkers.   walls, and some buildings in
          SÍfnos   § 22840 31153  In ancient times Sífnos was   the narrow, buttressed alleys
                            renowned for its gold mines,   bear Venetian coats of arms.
              ¡¡¡
                            and the islanders paid yearly   There are ruins of an ancient
                            homage to the Delphic   acropolis in the village, and
               Irini        sanctuary of Apollo with a   the Archaeological Museum
            A heart-warming   solid gold egg. One year they   has a collec tion of Archaic and
           traditional shop and   cheated and sent a gilded rock   Hellenistic sculpture, and
           kafenío (café) where   instead, incurring Apollo’s   Byzantine pottery.
            Mrs Irini whips up   curse. The gold mines were     The port of Kamáres is an
           comforting meals for   flooded, the island ruined and   old-fashioned resort, with
          hungry diners. On the   from then on it was known as   waterside cafés and tavernas.
          menu, you’ll find local   sífnos, meaning “empty”.  Buses from Kamáres port
          noodles with various     The capital, Apollonía, is east  connect it with Apollonía and
           toppings, including   of Kamáres port. A labyrinth   Kástro, on the east coast.
           delectably tender   of white houses, flowers and   The north of the harbour was
             stewed goat.   belfries, it is named after the   once lined with studios
            ⌂ Folégandros      7th-century BC Temple of   making Sífnos’s distinctive
            § 22860 41436   Apollo, which overlooked the   blue and brown ceramics, but
              ¡¡¡           town, now the site of the 18th-  only two remain. Taxi boats go
                            century church of the Panagía   from Kamáres to the funnel-
                            Ouranofóra. The Museum of   shaped bay and beach at
                            Popular Arts and Folklore in   Vathý, in the south. An hour’s
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