Page 269 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Greek Islands

of Kastélli, on the coast of the 12
Gramvoúsa Peninsula, a wind-
ing road descends to the Hóra Sfakíon
excellent and isolated beach at Σφαkιά
Falásarna. Once the site of
a Hellenistic city-state of that ⌂ 71 km (44 miles) S of
name, earthquakes have Haniá @
obliterated almost all trace Overlooking the Libyan Sea
of the once-thriving harbour from near the mouth of the
and town. Today many small breathtaking Ímbros Gorge,
guesthouses and tavernas are Hóra Sfakíon (the main town
scattered along the long and of wild Sfakiá district) enjoys a
often windy beach. commanding position as the
About 20 km (12 miles) east last coastal community of any
of Kastélli lies the picturesque size until Paleóhora. Cut off
Beach on the Gramvoúsa fishing village of Kolymbári. from the outside world until
Peninsula with amazing Head north of Kolymbári for recently, historically the local
turquoise waters the impressive 17th-century clansmen have a repu tation
Moní Panagías Goniás, with a for rugged self-sufficiency
lovely seaside setting and a and indivi dualism, albeit
soldiers killed during the fine collection of 17th-century accom panied by feuds and
Battle of Crete in World War II, icons. Every year on 29 August vendettas until the 1990s. The
and a military base. (Feast of St John the Baptist), village today is devoted to
hundreds of pilgrims make the tourism and is a stepping-off
3-hour walk up the peninsula point for the southwest coast.
10 to the church of Ágios Ioánnis
to witness the mass baptism
Kastélli Kissámou of boys named John (Ioánnis).
Καστέλλι Κισσάμου
Archaeological Museum
⌂ 37 km (23 miles) E ⌂ Platía Tzanakáki (near the EAT
of Haniá @ g
bus station) § 28220 83308
The small, unassuming town of # 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun Methexis
Kastélli Kissámou, also known Methexis delights with
simply as Kastélli, sits at the unusual recipes such as
eastern base of the virtu ally 11 goat with askólymbri
uninhabited Gramvoúsa (oyster thistle).
Peninsula. While not a touristy Gávdos ⌂ Easterly shore road,
town, it has a few hotels and Γαύδος Paleóhora
restaurants along its pebbly § 28230 41431
shore. In the town square is an g Platía Agías Ekaterínis ¡¡¡
Archae ological Museum with A triangular, juniper-flecked
spectacular Roman mosaics speck in the Libyan Sea
excavated in the area. Boat 27 nautical miles from Hóra Anchorage
trips run to the tip of the Sfakíon or Paleóhora, Gávdos This vine-shaded
Gramvoúsa Peninsula, where is Europe’s southernmost courtyard inland serves
there are sandy beaches. land mass. Not widely known, creative local dishes.
Some 7 km (4 miles) south of it has a cult-like popularity, ⌂ Papandérou St, Soúyia
Kastélli, the ruins of the ancient with thousands of Greek and § 28230 51487
city of Polyrínia are scattered foreign devotees. ¡¡¡
above the village of Ano Many visitors camp behind
Paleókastro. Dating from the excellent beaches, but the Kali Kardia
6th century BC, the fortified port hamlet of Karabé and the For a great meal at this
city-state was developed by dune-backed beach resort of old-fashioned taverna,
the Romans and later the Sarakíniko just north have ask the owners for
Byzantines and Venetians. tavernas and accommodation. recommendations.
A further 16 km (10 miles) west Naturists have colonized
Ágios Ioánnis, 3 km (2 miles) ⌂ Frangokástello beach
west, while at the south- § 28250 92123
eastern tip of Gávdos, Trypití ¡¡¡
Moní Chrysoskalítissa, sports a giant wood throne on
perched on the southwest which pilgrims sit to contem-
coast of Crete near Paleóhora plate the view.
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