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tours take place aboard
                                                a laser-guided under-
                                                ground train.
                                                  Serious quaffers might
                                                prefer the intimate tours
                                                at Champagne Georges
                                                Cartier (%03 26 32 06 22;
                                               YVES TALENSAC / GETTY IMAGES ©
                                                www.georgescartier.com; 9
                                                rue Jean Chandon Moët; adult
                                                incl 1/2 glasses €12/16, 2-glass
                                                Grand Cru €22, 3-glass vintage
                                                €35; htours 10.30am, noon,   FRANCE

                                                warren of cellars and pas-
                                                sageways, hewn out of the
                                                chalk in the 18th century,
                                                is incredibly atmospheric.
                                                Look out for the fasci-
                                                nating WWII graffiti.
                                                Tours are followed by a
                                                tasting of the maison’s
                                                2.30pm, 4pm Tue-Sun), whose  13 CHAMPAGNE TASTER
                                                Champagnes.
                                                  Finish with a climb up
                                                the 237-step tower at De
                                                Castellane (%03 26 51 19
                                                11; www.castellane.com; 57
                                                rue de Verdun; adult incl 1 glass
                                                €14, under 12yr free; htours
                                                10am-11pm & 2-5pm, closed
                                                Christmas–mid-Mar), which
                                                offers knockout views
                                                over the town’s rooftops
                                                and vine-clad hills.
                                                54 p183
                                                The Drive » Head south of
                                                town along av Maréchal Foch
                                                or av du 8 Mai 1945, following
                                                ‘Autres Directions’ signs across
                                                the roundabouts until you see
                                                signs for Cramant. The village is
                                                10km southeast of Épernay via
                                                the D10.


                                                6 Cramant
                                                You’ll find it hard to
                                                miss this quaint vil-
                                                lage, as the northern
                                                entrance is heralded


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