Page 185 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

Eating & Sleeping

Reims 1 Épernay 5
5 Brasserie 5 La Cave à
Le Boulingrin Brasserie €€ Champagne Regional Cuisine €€
(%03 26 40 96 22; www.boulingrin.fr; 29-31 (%03 26 55 50 70; www.la-cave-a-champagne.
rue de Mars; menus €20-29; hnoon-2.30pm & com; 16 rue Gambetta; menus €20-38; hnoon-
7-10.30pm Mon-Sat) A genuine, old-time brasserie 2pm & 7-10pm Thu-Mon; c) ‘The Champagne
– the decor and zinc bar date back to 1925 – Cellar’ is well regarded by locals for its
whose ambience and cuisine make it an enduring champenoise cuisine (snail-and-pig’s-trotter
favourite. From September to June, the culinary casserole, fillet of beef in pinot noir), served
focus is on fruits de mer (seafood) such as Breton in a warm, traditional, bourgeois atmosphere.
oysters. There’s always a €9.50 lunch special. You can sample four different Champagnes FRANCE 13 CHAMPAGNE TASTER
for €28.
5 l’Assiette
Champenoise Gastronomy €€€ 5 La Grillade
(%03 26 84 64 64; www.assiettechampenoise. Gourmande French €€
com; 40 av Paul-Vaillant-Couturier, Tinqueux; (%03 26 55 44 22; www.lagrilladegourmande.
menus €95-255; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm com; 16 rue de Reims; menus €19-59; hnoon-
Thu-Mon, 7.30-10pm Wed) Heralded far and 2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat) This chic, red-walled
wide as one of Champagne’s finest tables and bistro is an inviting spot to try chargrilled meats
crowned with the holy grail of three Michelin and dishes rich in texture and flavour, such
stars, L’Assiette Champenoise is headed up by as crayfish pan-fried in Champagne and lamb
chef Arnaud Lallemen. Listed by ingredients, his cooked in rosemary and honey until meltingly
intricate, creative dishes rely on outstanding tender. Diners spill out onto the covered terrace
produce and play up integral flavours – be it in the warm months.
Breton lobster, or milk-fed lamb with preserved
vegetables. One for special occasions. 4 La Villa
Eugène Boutique Hotel €€€
4 Les Telliers B&B €€ (%03 26 32 44 76; www.villa-eugene.com; 84
(%09 53 79 80 74; http://telliers.fr; 18 rue av de Champagne; s €160-177, d €216-343, ste
des Telliers; s €67-84, d €79-120, tr €116-141, q €380-398; paWs) Sitting handsomely
€132-162; pW) Enticingly positioned down a astride the av de Champagne in its own grounds
quiet alley near the cathedral, this bijou B&B with an outdoor pool, La Villa Eugène is a class
extends one of Reims’ warmest bienvenues. act. It’s lodged in a beautiful 19th-century town
The high-ceilinged rooms are big on art-deco mansion that once belonged to the Mercier
character, and handsomely decorated with family. The roomy doubles exude understated
ornamental fireplaces, polished oak floors elegance, with soft, muted hues and the odd
and the odd antique. Breakfast costs an extra antique. Splash out more for a private terrace or
€9 and is a generous spread of pastries, fruit, four-poster bed.
fresh-pressed juice and coffee.

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