Page 334 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

the route until you reach of Ireland’s ubiquitous
2 Killorglin Kenmare. peat bogs. You’ll see the
Killorglin (Cill Orglan) is 54 p339 thatched homes of the
quieter than the waters turf cutter, blacksmith,
of the River Laune that The Drive » Killorglin sits at thatcher and labourer, as
the crossroads of the N72 and
well as a dairy, and meet
lap against its 1885-built the N70; continue 13km along
eight-arched bridge – the N70 to the Kerry Bog Village rare Kerry Bog ponies.
except in mid-August, Museum. The Drive » It’s less than 1km
when there’s an explo- from the museum to the village
sion of time-honoured of Glenbeigh; turn off here
ceremonies at the famous 3 Kerry Bog Village and drive 2km west to unique
Puck Fair (Aonach an Phuic; Museum Rossbeigh Strand.
%066-976 2366; www.puck
fair.ie), a pagan festival Between Killorglin and 4 Rossbeigh Strand
whose first recorded Glenbeigh, the Kerry
mention was in 1603. Bog Village Museum This unusual beach is a
A statue of King Puck (www.kerrybogvillage.ie; tendril of sand protrud-
(a goat) peers out from Ballincleave, Glenbeigh; adult/ ing into Dingle Bay, with
the Killarney side of the child €6.50/4.50; h8.30am- views of Inch Point and
IRELAND 24 RING OF KERRY
river. 6pm; pc) re-creates a the Dingle Peninsula. On
Killorglin has some of 19th-century bog village, one side, the sea is ruf-
the finest eateries along typical of the small com- fled by Atlantic winds; on
the Ring. That said, munities that carved out the other, it’s sheltered
there’s not much com- a precarious living in and calm.
petition along much of the harsh environment

DETOUR:
CROMANE PENINSULA
Start: 2 Killorglin
Open fields give way to spectacular water vistas and multihued sunsets on the
Cromane Peninsula, with its tiny namesake village sitting at the base of a narrow
shingle spit.
Cromane’s exceptional restaurant, Jack’s Coastguard Restaurant (%066-976
9102; http://jackscromane.com; 2-/3-course menus €33/39, dinner mains €16.50-32.50; h6-
9pm Wed-Sat, 1-3.30pm & 6-9pm Sun, hrs may vary; pc), is a local secret and justifies the
trip. Entering this 1866-built coastguard station feels like arriving at a low-key village
pub, but a narrow doorway at the back of the bar leads to a striking, whitewashed
contemporary space where lights glitter from midnight-blue ceiling panels, and
there are stained glass and metallic fish sculptures, a pianist and huge picture
windows overlooking the water. Seafood is the standout, but there’s also steak,
roast lamb and a veggie dish of the day.
Cromane is 9km from Killorglin. Heading southwest from Killorglin along the N70,
take the second right and continue straight ahead until you get to the crossroads.
Turn right; Jack’s Coastguard Restaurant is on your left.
For more info on the area, visit www.cromane.net.

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