Page 338 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)
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beach, mountain and   eye to the wooded hills
                            woodland horse treks for   above town, may make
         TRIP HIGHLIGHT
                            all levels.        you forget for a split
        7 Caherdaniel       The Drive » Wind your way   second that Kenmare is a
        The scattered hamlet of   east along the N70 for 21km to   seaside town. With rivers
        Caherdaniel counts two   Sneem.        named Finnihy, Roughty
        of the Ring of Kerry’s                 and Sheen emptying
        highlights: Derrynane                  into Kenmare Bay, you
        National Historic Park,   8 Sneem      couldn’t be anywhere
        surrounded by sub-  Sneem’s Irish name, An   other than southwest
        tropical gardens; and   tSnaidhm, translates   Ireland.
        bar-restaurant Scarriff   to ‘the knot’, which is   In the 18th century
        Inn (%066-947 5132; http://  thought to refer to the   Kenmare was laid out to
        scarriffinn.com; Caherdaniel;   River Sneem that swirls,   an X-shaped plan, with a
        h9am-9pm, kitchen hrs vary),   knot-like, into nearby   triangular market square
        with its picture windows   Kenmare Bay.  in the centre. Today the
        framing what it plausibly   Take a gander at the   inverted V to the south
        claims is ‘Ireland’s finest   town’s two cute squares,   is the focus. Kenmare
        view’ over rugged cliffs   then pop into the Blue   Bay stretches out to the
        and islands.        Bull (%064-664 5382; South   southwest, and there
     IRELAND 24 RING OF KERRY
          Most activity here   Sq; mains €17-29; hfood   are glorious views of the
        centres on the Blue Flag   noon-2pm & 6-9.30pm), a   mountains.
        beach. Derrynane Sea   perfect little old stone   Signposted south-
        Sports (%087 908 1208;   pub, for a pint.  west of the square is an
        www.derrynaneseasports.com;            early Bronze Age stone
        Derrynane Beach) organ-  4 p339        circle, one of the biggest
        ises sailing, canoeing,   The Drive » Along the 27km   in southwest Ireland.
        surfing, windsurfing and   drive to Kenmare, the N70 drifts   Fifteen stones ring a
        water-skiing (from €40   away from the water to coast   boulder dolmen, a burial
        per person), as well as   along under a canopy of trees.  monument rarely found
        equipment hire (around                 outside this part of the
        €10 per hour). Eagle                   country.
        Rock Equestrian Centre   9 Kenmare     54  p313, p339
        (%066-947 5145; www.  The copper-covered lime-
        eaglerockcentre.com; Bally-  stone spire of Holy Cross   The Drive » The coastal
        carnahan; per hr €35) offers   Church, drawing the   scenery might be finished, but,
                                               if anything, the next 23km are
                                               even more stunning as you head
                                               north from Kenmare to the Gap
                 TOP TIP:                      of Dunloe on the vista-crazy
                 AROUND (AND ACROSS)           N71, winding between rock
                 THE RING                      and lake, with plenty of lay-bys
                                               (shoulders) to stop and admire
          Tour buses travel anticlockwise around the Ring, and   the views (and recover from the
          authorities generally encourage visitors to drive in   switchback bends).
          the same direction to avoid traffic congestion and
          accidents. If you travel clockwise, watch out on blind
          corners. There’s little traffic on the Ballaghbeama   TRIP HIGHLIGHT
          Gap, which cuts across the peninsula’s central   a Gap of Dunloe
          highlands and has some spectacular views.
                                               Just west of Killarney
                                               National Park, the Gap

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