Page 339 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

KILLARNEY NATIONAL PARK
Designated a Unesco Biosphere Reserve in 1982, Killarney National Park (www.
killarneynationalpark.ie) is among the finest of Ireland’s national parks. And while
its proximity to one of the southwest’s largest and liveliest urban centres (including
pedestrian entrances right in Killarney’s town centre) is an ongoing threat due to
high visitor numbers, it’s an important conservation area for many rare species.
Within its 102 sq km is Ireland’s only wild herd of native red deer, which has lived
here continuously for 12,000 years, as well as the country’s largest area of ancient
oak woods and views of most of its major mountains.
The glacial Lough Leane (the Lower Lake or ‘Lake of Learning’), Muckross Lake
and the Upper Lake make up about a quarter of the park. Their peaty waters are as
rich in wildlife as the surrounding land: cormorants skim across the surface, deer
swim out to graze on islands, and salmon, trout and perch prosper in a pike-free
environment. Lough Leane has vistas of reeds and swans. IRELAND 24 RING OF KERRY
With a bit of luck, you might see white-tailed sea eagles, with their 2.5m
wingspan, soaring overhead. The eagles were reintroduced here in 2007 after
more than 100 years of local extinction. There are now more than 50 in the park
and they’re starting to settle in Ireland’s rivers, lakes and coastal regions. And
like Killarney itself, the park is also home to plenty of summer visitors, including
migratory cuckoos, swallows and swifts.
Keep your eyes peeled, too, for the park’s smallest residents – its insects,
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
including the northern emerald dragonfly, which isn’t normally found this far south
in Europe and is believed to have been marooned here after the last ice age.

of Dunloe is ruggedly then right again at the bends are nerve-testing.
beautiful. In the winter crossroads (about 13km It’s worth walking or
it’s an awe-inspiring from the N71 all up). taking a jaunting car (or,
mountain pass, over- A simple 19th-century if you’re carrying two
shadowed by Purple hunting lodge, it has wheels, cycling) through
Mountain and Macgilly- an open-air cafe and a the Gap, however: the
cuddy’s Reeks. In high dock for boats crossing scenery is a fantasy of
summer it’s a bottleneck Killarney National Park’s rocky bridges over clear
for the tourist trade, Upper Lake. From here mountain streams and
with buses ferrying a (very) narrow road lakes. Alternatively,
countless visitors here weaves up the hill to the there are various options
for horse-and-trap rides Gap – theoretically you for exploring the Gap
through the Gap. can drive this 8km route from Killarney.
On the southern side, to the 19th-century pub
surrounded by lush, Kate Kearney’s Cottage The Drive » Continue on the
N71 north through Killarney
green pastures, is Lord (%064-664 4146; www. National Park to Muckross
Brandon’s Cottage (Gear- katekearneyscottage.com; Estate (32km).
hameen, Beaufort; dishes mains €11-23.50; hfood
€3-8; h8am-3pm Apr-Oct), noon-8pm; pc) and TRIP HIGHLIGHT
accessed by turning back but only outside
left at Moll’s Gap on the summer. Even then b Muckross Estate
R568, then taking the walkers and cyclists The core of Killarney Na-
first right, another right have right of way, and tional Park is Muckross
at the bottom of the hill, the precipitous hairpin

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