Page 405 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

The Drive » Leave Pamplona
on the A12 westbound and after
about 10 minutes turn off at exit TOP TIP:
9, onto the more driver-friendly FUENTE DE VINO
NA1110. Drive through Astraín
and continue along this peaceful Even the most adamant nonwalker might wish they’d
country road for 10 minutes to donned hiking boots when they get to the Monasterio
Legarda, then to Muruzábal and, de Irache near Estella and find the Fuente de Vino
finally, 2km southeast to Santa
María de Eunate. (Spring of Wine), just behind the Bodega de Irache.
Yes, it really is a spring of wine and yes, you really can
drink some for free – though only if you’re a pilgrim
3 Santa María walking, not driving! – to Santiago.
de Eunate
Surrounded by cornfields with the ghosts of a mul- visitors are continuing
and brushed by wildflow- titude of pilgrims. Their that same plodding tradi-
ers, the near perfect first stop here is at the tion. There’s an attractive
octaganal Romanesque late-Romanesque Iglesia old quarter and a couple SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE
chapel of Santa María del Crucifijo, erected by of notable churches, in-
de Eunate (h10am-2pm the Knights Templar and cluding the 12th-century
& 4-7.30pm Tue-Sun) is one still containing one of the Iglesia de San Pedro de
of the most picturesque finest Gothic crucifixes in la Rúa. It’s cloisters are a
chapels along the whole existence. fine example of Roman-
Camino. Dating from esque sculptural work.
around the 12th century The Drive » The fastest Across the river and over-
way between Puente la Reina
its origins – and the rea- and Estella is on the A12 (20 looking the town is the
son why it’s located in minutes, 22km), but the more Iglesia de San Miguel,
the middle of nowhere – enjoyable drive is along the with a fine Romanesque
are something of a slower, more rural, NA1110, for north door. Close to
mystery. which you should allow about Estella are a couple of
half an hour. You’ll probably spy interesting monasteries:
The Drive » From the chapel a few Camino pilgrims trudging
it’s just a 5km drive along the along. the Monasterio de Irache
NA6064 to gorgeous Puente (h10am-1.15pm & 4-7pm
la Reina. Wed-Sun, closed 1-17 Jan) and
5 Estella Monasterio de Iranzu
(www.monasterio-iranzu.com;
4 Puente la Reina Estella (Basque: Lizarra) admission €2.50; h10am-2pm
The chief calling card of was known as ‘La Bella’ & 4-8pm).
in medieval times be-
Puente la Reina (Basque: cause of the splendour of The Drive » It’s a 40km (50
Gares), 22km southwest its monuments and build- minute) drive from Estella to
of Pamplona on the A12, ings, and though the Viana. When you leave Estella
is the spectacular six- old dear has lost some take the A12 westward and turn
arched medieval bridge of its beauty to modern onto the NA1110 at junction 58.
that dominates the suburbs, it’s not without Follow the NA1110 through the
western end of town, but charms. During the 11th sleepy towns of Los Arcos, Sansol
and Torres del Ro. In hillside
Puente la Reina rewards century Estella became a Torres you’ll find a remarkably
on many other levels. A main reception point for intact eight-sided Romanesque
key stop on the Camino the growing flood of pil- chapel, the Iglesia del Santo
de Santiago, the town’s grims along the Camino Sepulcro.
pretty streets throng
de Santiago. Today most

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