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6 Viana
                                                Overlooked by many
                                                nonpilgrim tourists,
                                                Viana, the last town in
                                                Navarra, started life as a
                                                garrison town defending
                                               DANIEL ACEVEDO / GETTY IMAGES ©
                                                the kingdom of Navarra
                                                from Castilla. Today,
                                                the old part of the town,
                                                which sits atop a hill, is
                                                still largely walled and
                                                is an interesting place
                                                to wander about for a
                                                couple of hours. The
                                                Iglesia de Santa María
                                                and Iglesia de San Pedro   SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE
                                                are the chief attrac-
                                                tions. Work started on
                                                Santa María in the 13th
                                                century and it is one
                                                of the more impressive
                                                religious structures on
                                                this eastern end of the
                                                Camino. The Iglesia de
                                                San Pedro is today a ruin
                                                that hosts concerts and
                                                weddings. The former
                                                bull ring is today a plaza
                                                in the middle of town,
                                                where children booting
                                                footballs are considerably
                                                more common than bulls.
                                                The Drive » It’s 10km and
                                                20 minutes from Viana to
                                                Logroño. The first half of the
                                                drive is through open, big-sky
                                                countryside; the last part
                                                through the city suburbs.
                                                There’s a large carpark
                                                underneath the main plaza by
                                                the old town.


                                                7 Logroño
                                                Logroño, capital of
                                                La Rioja and Spain’s
                                                wine-growing region
                                                par excellence, doesn’t
                                                feel the need to be loud
                                                and brash. Instead it’s a

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