Page 409 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

WHO WAS ST JAMES THE APOSTLE?

St James, or James the Greater, was one of the 12 disciples of Jesus. He may even
have been the first disciple. He was also the first to be martyred by King Herod in AD
44. So, if St James was living in the Holy Lands 2000 years ago, an obvious question
persists: what were the remains of St James doing in northwest Spain a thousand
years later? The accepted story (and we’re not standing by its authenticity)
suggests that two of St James’s own disciples secreted his remains onto a stone
boat which then set sail across the Mediterranean and passed into the Atlantic to
moor at present-day Padrón (Galicia). Continuing inland for 17km, the disciples
buried his body in a forest named Liibredon (present-day Santiago de Compostela).
All was then forgotten until a thousand years later, when a religious hermit found
the remains.

and the other stellar Benedictine centre by SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE
attractions of Burgos, see b Frómista the 12th century. The
p422. The main (and some Mudéjar-influenced brick
54 p412, p425 would say only) reason Romanesque churches
merit a visit.
for stopping here is the
The Drive » It’s 58km (45 village’s exceptional The Drive » The 59km (50
minutes) from Burgos to little Romanesque church, the minute) stretch from Sahagún
castle-topped Castrojeriz. Take to León along the A231 and
the A12 out of town to junction Iglesia de San Martín N601 isn’t one of the more
32 and turn off northwest along (admission €1; h9.30am-2pm memorable driving moments of
the minor BU400. & 4.30-8pm). Dating from this route. Still, you have to feel
1066 and restored in the for those walking the Camino as
early 20th century, this they’re virtually walking along
a Castrojeriz harmoniously propor- beside you (some pilgrims
With it’s mix of old and tioned church is one of bus between Burgos and León
new buildings huddled the premier Romanesque because so much of the route is
next to the motorway).
around the base of a hill churches in rural Spain,
that’s topped with what’s adorned with a veritable
left of a crumbling castle, menagerie of human TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Castrojeriz is your typi- and zoomorphic figures d León
cal small meseta town. just below the eaves. The León is a wonderful city,
It’s worth a climb up to capitals within are also combining stunning his-
the castle if only for the richly decorated. torical architecture with
views. The town’s church, The Drive » From Frómista to an irresistible energy. Its
Iglesia de San Juan, is Sahagún is 59km (45 minutes) standout attraction is the
worth a look as well. via the P980 to Carrión de los
Condes, where the Camino 13th-century Catedral
The Drive » From Castrojeriz basically starts following the (%987 87 57 70; www.
it’s only 30km (35 minutes) major A231 road. catedraldeleon.org; adult/
along the BU403 and P432 concession/child under 12yr
to Frómista. The scenery is €5/4/free; h9.30am-1.30pm
classic meseta and if you’re c Sahagún & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-
lucky you’ll catch a glimpse of
such evocotive sights as a flock Despite appearances, Sa- 2.30pm & 5-8pm Sun), one
of sheep being led over the hagún was an immensely of the most beautiful
alternately burning or freezing powerful and wealthy cathedrals in Spain.
plateau by a shepherd. Whether spotlit by night

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