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related activities. For   have been recognised by
                             more on things to see and  Unesco as World Herit-
          TRIP HIGHLIGHT
                             do in Logroño, see p405.  age sites.
          1 Logroño                               The Monasterio de
          Small and low-key   4 p412, p435      Yuso (%941 37 30 49; www.
          Logroño is the capital of   The Drive » It’s only a short   monasteriodeyuso.org; adult/
          La Rioja. The city doesn’t   drive of 28km (25 minutes)   child €6/2; h10am-1.30pm &
          receive all that many   from Logroño to Nájera along   4-6.30pm Tue-Sun) contains
          tourists and there aren’t   the N232, which transforms into   numerous treasures in
                             the A12 motorway around the
          all that many things to   halfway point.  its museum. You can only
          see and do, but there is              visit as part of a guided
          a monumentally good                   tour. Tours last 50 min-
          selection of tapas bars. In   2 Nájera  utes and run every half-
          fact, Logroño is quickly              hour or so. In August it’s
          gaining a culinary repu-  The main attraction of   also open on Mondays.
                             this otherwise unexciting
          tation to rival anywhere   town, which lies on the   A short distance away
          in Spain.          Camino de Santiago, is   is the Monasterio de    SPAIN 31 ROvING LA RIOjA WINE REGION
           Based in the small                   Suso (%941 37 30 82; admis-
          village of Fuenmayor (10   the Gothic Monasterio   sion €4; h9.30am-1.30pm &
          minutes west of Logroño),   de Santa María la Real   3.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun). It’s
                             (admission €3; h10am-1pm &
          Rioja Trek (%941 58 73 54;   4-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-12.30pm   believed that in the 13th
          www.riojatrek.com; wine experi-  & 4-6pm Sun), in particular   century a monk named
          ence €28 per person) offers   its fragile-looking, early-  Gonzalo de Berceo wrote
          three-hour wine ‘experi-              the first Castilian words
          ences’ where you visit a   16th-century cloisters.   here. Again, it can only
                             The monastery was
          vineyard and bodega and   built in 1032, but was   be visited on a guided
          participate in the process   significantly rebuilt in   tour. Tickets, which must
          of actually making wine   the 15th-century.  be bought in advance,
          yourself. It also offers              can be reserved by phone
          family-friendly wine-   The Drive » The dry   and can be picked up at
                             landscapes around Nájera   the Monasterio de Yuso.
                             become greener and more
                             rolling as you head southwest   The Drive » It’s a 23km
                 LINK        along the LR113 and LR205 for   (20 minute) drive along the
                                                delightfully quiet LR204 to
                 YOUR        18km (20 minutes) to San Millán   Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
                             de Cogolla. In the far distance
                 TRIP        mountains, which are snow-  The scenery is a mix of vast
                             capped in winter, rise up.  sunburnt fields, red tinged soils,
          t  Northern Spain                     vineyards and patches of forest.
             Pilgrimage
          Drive alongside pilgrims   3 San Millán de
          on the road to Santiago   Cogolla     4 Santo Domingo
          de Compostela. You can   The hamlet of San Millán   de la Calzada
          join ‘the Way’ in Logroño.            The small, walled old
                             de Cogolla is home to two   town of Santo Domingo
          u  Historic        remarkable monaster-  is the kind of place
                             ies, which between them
             Castilla y León
                                                where you can be certain
          A quick skip south to   helped give birth to   that the baker knows
                             the Castilian (Spanish)
          Soria will let you do this            all his customers by
          captivating inland tour in   language. On account of   name and that everyone
                             their linguistic heritage
          reverse.                              will turn up for María’s
                             and artistic beauty, they
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