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result is the spectacular
                                                Frank Gehry–designed
                                                Hotel Marqués de Riscal.
                                                Costing around €85
                                                million, the building is
                                                a flamboyant wave of
                                               TIM GRAHAM / GETTY IMAGES ©
                                                multicoloured titanium
                                                sheets that stands in
                                                utter contrast to the
                                                village behind. It’s like
                                                a rainbow-flavoured
                                                Guggenheim museum
                                                (not surprisingly, per-
                                                haps, as that was also
                                                designed by Gehry).
                                                Casual visitors are not
                                                really welcome to look    SPAIN 31 ROvING LA RIOjA WINE REGION
                                                around the hotel, but
                                                there is an excellent
                                                wine shop and interest-
                                                ing wine tours (%945 18
                                                08 88; www.marquesderiscal.
                                                com; tour €11) take place
                                                – there’s at least one
                                                English-language tour
                                                a day.
                                                4p435
                                                The Drive » It’s only 15
                                                minutes (9km) along the A3210
                                                from Elciego to wonderful
                                                Laguardia, which rises up off
                                                the otherwise flat, vine-striped
                                                countryside.

                                                 TRIP HIGHLIGHT
                                                8 Laguardia
                                                It’s easy to spin back the
                                                wheels of time in the
                                                medieval fortress town
                                                of Laguardia, or the
                                                ‘Guard of Navarra’ as it
                                                was once appropriately
                                                known, sitting proudly
                                                on its rocky hilltop. As
                                                well as memories of
                                                long-lost yesterdays, the
                                                town further entices
                                                visitors with its wine-
                                                producing present.


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