Page 432 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

christening. Santiago- The Drive » The LR111 goes There are plenty of
bound pilgrims have in an almost ruler-straight wine bodegas in the vi-
long been a part of the line across fields of crops cinity of the town, some
fabric of this town, and and under a big sky to the of which are open to visi-
that tradition continues workaday town of Haro (20km, tors (almost always with
to this day, with most 20 minutes). advance reservation).
visitors being foot-weary One of the more recep-
pilgrims. All this helps tive to visitors is the Bo-
to make Santo Domingo 5 Haro degas Muga (%941 30 60
one of the most enjoy- Despite its fame in the 60; www.bodegasmuga.com;
able places in La Rioja. wine world, there’s not Barrio de la Estación; winery
The biggest attraction much of a heady bouquet tour €10), which is just
in town, aside from the to Haro, the capital of La after the railway bridge
very worthwhile pursuit Rioja’s wine-producing on the way out of town.
of just strolling the region. But the town has It gives daily guided
streets and lounging in a cheerful pace and the tours (except Sunday) in
the main old-town plaza, compact old quarter, Spanish, and tastings.
is a visit to the cathe- leading off Plaza de la Although technically you
dral. See p406 for more. Paz, has some intriguing should book in advance
alleyways with bars and in high season, you can
4p435 wine shops aplenty. often just turn up and

SPAIN 31 ROvING LA RIOjA WINE REGION
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE:
TAPAS IN LOGROÑO
Make no mistake about it: Logroño is a foodie’s delight. There are a number of very
good restaurants, and then there are the tapas (which here are sometimes called
by their Basque name of pintxos). Few cities have such a dense concentration of
excellent tapas bars. Most of the action takes place on Calle Laurel and Calle de San
Juan. Tapas cost around €2 to €4, and most of the bars are open from about 8pm
through to midnight, except on Mondays. The following are some of our favourites.
Torrecilla (Calle Laurel 15; pintxos from €2) OK, we’re going to stick our necks out here
and say that this place serves the best pintxos in town. Go for the pyramid of jamón
(cured ham) or the miniburgers (which come with mini bottles of ketchup!). In fact,
what the heck, go for anything. It’s all good!
Bar Soriano (Travesía de Laurel 2; pintxos from €2) The smell of frying food will suck you
into this bar, which has been serving up the same delicious mushroom tapa, topped
with a shrimp, for more than 30 years.
La Taberna de Baco (Calle de San Agustín 10; pintxos from €2) This place has a cracking
list of around 40 different pintxos, including bombitas (potatoes stuffed with
mushrooms) and a delightful mess of toast with pate, apple, goat cheese and
caramel.
La Fontana (Calle Laurel 16; pintxos from €2) Another stellar pintxo bar with a
welcoming atmosphere. This one’s speciality is sepia fontana. And when you order
this what emerges from the kitchen? A pile of egg, mushroom, aubergine and foie
gras. The octopus isn’t bad either.

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