Page 88 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

Eating & Sleeping

Rome 1 Siena 2
5 Trattoria Monti Ristorante $$ 5 Enoteca I Terzi Tuscan $$
(%06 446 65 73; Via di San Vito 13a; meals €40- (%0577 4 43 29; www.enotecaiterzi.it; Via dei
45; h1-3pm Tue-Sun, 8-11pm Tue-Sat, closed Termini 7; meals €35-40; h11am-1am summer,
Aug; mVittorio Emanuele) The Camerucci 11am-4pm & 6.30pm-midnight winter, closed
family runs this elegant brick-arched place, Sun) A favourite for many locals who head to
proffering top-notch traditional cooking from this historic enoteca to linger over lunches,
Le Marche region. There are wonderful fritti aperitivi and casual dinners featuring top-
(fried things), delicate pastas and ingredients notch Tuscan salumi (cured meats), delicate
such as pecorino di fossa (sheep’s cheese aged handmade pasta and wonderful wines.
in caves), goose, swordfish and truffles. Try the
egg-yolk tortelli pasta. Desserts are delectable,
including apple pie with zabaglione. Word has Florence 3
ITALY 5 WORLD HERITAGE WONDERS
spread, so book ahead.
5 Trattoria Cibrèo Tuscan $$
5 Casa Coppelle Ristorante $$ (www.edizioniteatrodelsalecibreofirenze.it; Via
(%06 6889 1707; www.casacoppelle.it; Piazza dei Macci 122r; meals €30; h12.50-2.30pm &
delle Coppelle 49; meals €45; hnoon-3.30pm 6.50-11pm Tue-Sat, closed Aug) Dine here and
& 6.30-11.30pm; gCorso del Rinascimento) you’ll instantly understand why a queue gathers
Exposed brick walls, flowers and subdued outside before it opens. Once inside, revel
lighting set the stage for creative Italian- and in top-notch Tuscan cuisine: perhaps pappa
French-inspired food at this intimate, romantic al pomodoro (a thick soupy mash of tomato,
restaurant. There’s a full range of starters and bread and basil) followed by polpettine di pollo
pastas, but the real tour de force are the rich, e ricotta (chicken and ricotta meatballs). No
decadent meat dishes. Service is attentive reservations, no credit cards, no coffee, no
and the setting, on a small piazza near the pasta and arrive early to snag a table.
Pantheon, memorable. Book ahead.
5 L’Osteria di Giovanni Tuscan $$$
4 La Piccola Maison B&B $$ (%055 28 48 97; www.osteriadigiovanni.it; Via
(%06 4201 6331; www.lapiccolamaison.com; del Moro 22; meals €50; h7-10pm Mon-Fri,
Via dei Cappuccini 30; s €50-180, d €70-200, 12.30-3pm & 7-10pm Sat & Sun) Cuisine at this
tr €110-270; aW; mBarberini) The excellent smart neighbourhood eatery is sumptuously
Piccola Maison is housed in a 19th-century Tuscan. Imagine truffles, tender steaks and
building in a great location close to Piazza pastas such as pici al sugo di salsicccia e cavolo
Barberini, and has pleasingly plain, neutrally nero (thick spaghetti with a sauce of sausage
decorated rooms and thoughtful staff. It’s a and black cabbage). Throw in a complimentary
great deal. glass of prosecco and you’ll want to return time
and again.

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