Page 93 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)
P. 93

sophisticated city. The   the ancient Elymians,
          1 Palermo          Cappella Palatina (Palatine  was in constant conflict
          Palermo is a fascinating   Chapel; www.federicosecondo.  with Selinunte, whose de-
          conglomeration of splen-  org; Piazza Indipendenza;   struction it sought with
          dour and decay. Unlike   adult/reduced Fri-Mon   dogged determination
                                                and singular success.
                             €8.50/6.50, Tue-Thu €7/5;
          Florence or Rome, many
          of its treasures are hid-  h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 8.30-  Time, however, has done
          den rather than scrubbed   9.40am & 11.15am-1pm Sun)   to Segesta what violence
          up for endless streams of   is the perfect expression   inflicted on Selinunte;
          tourists. The evocative   of this marriage, with its   little remains now, save
                                                the theatre and the
                             gold-inflected Byzantine
          history of the city infuses
          its daily life, lending its   mosaics crowned by a   never-completed Doric
          dusty backstreet markets   honeycomb muqarnas   temple. The latter dates
          a distinct Middle Eastern   ceiling – a masterpiece of  from around 430 BC
          feel and its architecture a   Arab craftsmanship.  and is remarkably well
                               For an insight into
                                                preserved. On windy days
          unique East-meets-West                                     ITALY 6  WONDERS OF ANCIENT SICILY
          look.              Sicily’s long and tur-  its 36 giant columns are
                             bulent past, the Museo
           A trading port since                 said to act like an organ,
          Phoenician times, the   Archeologico Regionale   producing mysterious
          city, which is best ex-  (%091 611 68 07; www.  notes.
          plored on foot, first came   regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/  The Drive » Keep heading
          to prominence as capital   salinas; Piazza Olivella 24;   along A29dir through a
          of Arab Sicily in the 9th   h9.30am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, to   patchwork of green and ochre
          century AD. When the   1pm Sat & Sun) houses some   fields and follow signs for the
          Normans rode into town   of the island’s most valu-  40km to Trapani. As you reach
                                                its outskirts, you’ll head up the
                             able Greek and Roman
          in the 11th century, they             very windy SP3 to Erice, with
          used Arab know-how to   artefacts.    great views of countryside
          turn it into Christen-  54 p98        and sea.
          dom’s richest and most
                             The Drive » From Palermo
                             the 82km trip to Segesta starts
                             along the fast-moving A29 as   3 Erice
                 LINK        it skirts the mountains west   A spectacular hill town,
                 YOUR        of Palermo, then runs along   Erice combines medieval
                             agricultural plains until you
                 TRIP        reach the hills of Segesta.   charm with astounding
                             The Greek ruins lie just off the   360-degree views from
                                                atop the legendary Mt
          1   Grand Tour     A29dir.            Eryx (750m) – on a clear
              Head north to
          Naples where you can   TRIP HIGHLIGHT  day, you can see as far
                                                as Cape Bon in Tunisia.
          start your search for                 Wander the medieval
          enlightenment and   2 Segesta         streets interspersed with
          adventure.         Set on the edge of a deep
                             canyon in the midst of   churches, forts and tiny
          4   Amalfi Coast   desolate mountains, the   cobbled piazzas. Little
                                                remains from its ancient
              Don’t miss this   5th-century-BC ruins
          week-long adventure of   of Segesta (%0924 95   past, though as a centre
          hairpin turns and vertical   23 56; adult/reduced €6/3;   for the cult of Venus, it
          landscapes amid the   h9am-7.30pm Apr-Sep,   has a seductive history.
          world’s most glamorous   9am-1hr before sunset Oct-  The best views can
          stretch of coastline.  Mar) are a magical site.   be had from the Gi-
                             The city, founded by   ardino del Balio, which
                                                                   91
   88   89   90   91   92   93   94   95   96   97   98