Page 89 - Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

4 Hotel L’O Design Hotel $$$ 4 Hotel Cervetta 5 Hotel $$
(%055 27 73 80; www.hotelorologioflorence. (%059 23 84 47; www.hotelcervetta5.com;
com; Piazza di Santa Maria Novella 24; d from Via Cervetta 5; s €90-115, d €128-215; aW)
€150; paiW) The type of seductive Cervetta is about as posh as Modena gets
address James Bond would feel right at home without pampering to the convention crowd.
in, this super-stylish hotel oozes panache. A location adjacent to intimate Piazza Grande
Designed as a showcase for the (very wealthy) is complemented by quasi-boutique facilities,
owner’s (exceedingly expensive) luxury clean, modern bathrooms and the latest in
wristwatch collection, L’O (the hip take on its full TV technology. Fruity breakfasts and wi-fi are
name, Hotel L’Orologio) has four stars, rooms included; garage parking (€15) isn’t.
named after watches and clocks pretty much
everywhere. Don’t be late…
Venice 8
Pisa 4 5 All’Arco Venetian $
(%041 520 56 66; Calle dell’Ochialer 436, San
5 Sottobosco Cafe $ Polo; cicheti from €1.50; h8am-8pm Wed-Fri, to ITALY 5 WORLD HERITAGE WONDERS
(www.sottoboscocafe.it; Piazza San Paolo 3pm Mon, Tue & Sat; fRialto-Mercato) Search
all’Orto; lunches €15; h3pm-midnight Tue-Fri, out this authentic neighbourhood osteria
6pm-1am Sat, 6pm-midnight Sun winter, noon- (casual tavern) for some of the best cicheti
3pm & 6pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 6pm-1am Sat, 6pm- (bar snacks) in town. Armed with ingredients
midnight Sun summer, closed Jul & Aug) What from the nearby Rialto market, father-son
a tourist-free breath of fresh air this creative team Francesco and Matteo serve miniature
cafe is! Tuck into a sugary ring doughnut and masterpieces such as cannocchia (mantis
cappuccino at a glass-topped table filled with shrimp) with pumpkin and roe, and otrega
artists’ crayons perhaps, or a collection of crudo (raw butterfish) with mint-and-olive-oil
buttons. Lunch dishes (salads, pies and pasta) marinade.
are simple and homemade, and come dusk, jazz Venetian $$$
bands play or DJs spin tunes. 5 Anice Stellato
(%041 72 07 44; www.osterianicestellato.
com; Fondamenta de la Sensa 3272; bar snacks
Modena 5 €13.50, meals €45-50; h10.30am-3.30pm
& 6.30pm-midnight Wed-Sun; fMadonna
5 Hosteria Giusti Gastronomy $$$ dell’Orto) Tin lamps, unadorned rustic tables
(%059 22 25 33; www.hosteriagiusti.it; Vicolo and a small wooden bar set the scene for quality
Squallore 46; meals €50, with half portions €35; seafood at this excellent canal-side bacaro
h12.30-2pm Tue-Sat) With only four tables, (bar). You can munch on bar-side cicheti or go
a narrow back-alley location, no real signage for the full à la carte menu and swoon over juicy
and a 90-minute daily opening window, this scampi in saor (vinegar marinade) and grilled
perplexingly unassuming osteria isn’t really tuna. Reservations recommended.
setting itself up for legendary status. But 4 Novecento Boutique Hotel $$$
tentative whispers turn to exuberant shouts
when regional specialities like cotechino fritto (%041 241 37 65; www.novecento.biz; Calle del
con zabaglione al lambrusco (fried Modena Dose 2683/84; d €140-350; aW; fSanta
sausage with wine-flavoured egg custard) arrive Maria del Giglio) Sporting a boho-chic look, the
at your table. Booking essential. Novocento is a real charmer. Its nine individually
designed rooms ooze style with Turkish kilim
pillows, Fortuny draperies and 19th-century
carved bedsteads. Outside, its garden is a lovely
spot to linger over breakfast.

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