Page 128 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

126 BACK ROADS IRELAND

5 Cliffs of Moher McGann’s, McDermott’s and Gus
Co Clare O’Connors, are highly recommended,
One of Ireland’s most remarkable the last especially for rollicking ballads.
natural features, the Cliffs of Moher ª Take the R479 north and then turn
are where the limestone plateau of left at the junction with the R477. This
the Burren plunges 300 m (1,000 ft) rejoins the coast, eventually rounding
into the sea. They stretch for 8 km Black Head.
(5 miles) along the coast of Clare.
Park at the northern end, by the Cliffs 7 Black Head
of Moher Visitor Experience (open Co Clare
daily). The state-of-the-art visitor centre The drive around Black Head to
offers interactive exhibits and virtual Ballyvaughan is thrilling, sweeping
experiences, including the Atlantic close to the shore with a succession
Edge, which simulates the sensation of glorious views. Pull in and stretch
of stepping onto the cliff edge. your legs on Fanore Beach or stop at
To view the cliffs in relative the lighthouse, from where there are
isolation, take the cliff path to the far-reaching views across Galway Bay.
southern extremity of Hag’s Head. ª Continue along the R477 to
On a clear day there are views of Ballyvaughan.
the Aran Islands and the mountains
of Connemara. 8 Ballyvaughan
Above The majestic Cliffs of Moher rising ª From the Cliffs of Moher, a Co Clare
from the Atlantic Ocean winding coastal road leads to Doolin. A fishing village dotted with slate-
However, this gets congested, roofed cottages, Ballyvaughan
SHOPPING IN DOOLIN especially in summer, so take the bustles with visitors in summer. It
R478 north and turn left at the sign is often described as the gateway to
The Traditional Music Shop on Fisher for Doolin. the Burren, for this is where the
Street sells recordings of musicians from limestone plateau at the heart of the
the area, sheet music and locally made 6 Doolin Burren begins. The town has a range
musical instruments (065 707 4407;
www.irishmusicdoolin.com). Co Clare of good hotels, pubs and restaurants.
If County Clare is the heartland of Bicycle hire and guided walks to view
traditional Irish music, the village of the area’s geology and botany can
Doolin is its music capital, brimming be arranged through the Tourist
WHERE TO STAY with music pubs and shops. These Information Centre (see right).
days some of them cater more to the ª Take the N67 inland towards
DOOLIN tourist industry than for genuine Lisdoonvarna, famous for its match-
Ballinalacken Castle Country House music lovers, but there are several making competition. Look back for
and Restaurant moderate–expensive authentic music pubs where visitors stunning views over Galway Bay. After
This manor house is the perfect can still pull up a seat and experience 1.5 km (1 mile), turn left onto the R480
retreat, with views of the Aran Islands. the full force of a rousing session. for the heart of the Burren.
Doolin; 086 361 3719;
www.ballinalackencastle.com
Below Stunning views over Galway Bay from Black Head Lighthouse
BALLYVAUGHAN
Hyland’s Burren Hotel inexpensive
18th-century hotel with 31 individually
designed, en suite rooms and turf fires in
the public area. The Burren Bar is a lovely
spot for whiling away an hour or two.
Ballyvaughan; 065 707 7037;
www.hylandsburren.com
THE BURREN
Fergus View inexpensive
Neat farmhouse well located for
exploring the surrounding area.
Killinaboy, Corrofin; 065 683 7606;
www.fergusview.com
Gregan’s Castle Hotel expensive
A charming manor house hotel. Turf fires
and sweeping views of the Burren.
Corkscrew Hill, 4 km (2 miles) south of
Ballyvaughan; closed Dec–mid-Feb; 065
707 7005; www.gregans.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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