Page 129 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 11: Lyrical Clare 127

9 The Burren
Co Clare
This massive plateau covers the whole of northwest Clare. Its name
derives from the Irish An Bhoieann, meaning “The Stony District”, for it
is covered with huge flagstones called clints broken by deep fissures
called grikes, through which millennia of rainfall have drained to form
underground caves and rivers. One of Cromwell’s surveyors declared it
a savage land, yielding little. In fact, it is astonishingly rich in plant life,
and it abounds in stone forts and megalithic tombs.
Heart of the Burren burrenperfumery.com), an artisan
The characteristic karst landscape of perfumery inspired by the local flora.
the Burren unfolds as the R480 heads Leaving here, continue in the same
south. On the left is the western flank direction. After about 4 km (2 miles)
of Aillwee Rock and Aillwee Cave, a the road descends steeply. After it Above Poulnabrone Dolmen, one of many
series of spectacular showcaves (www. levels out, look left for the entrance megalithic portal tombs on the Burren
aillweecave.ie; open daily). Go south for to St Colman’s Well, a 20-minute walk
7 km (4 miles) to Poulnabrone Dolmen, along a path. This healing well is
a large portal tomb dating from overhung by an ash tree strung with
2500–2000 BC and one of “clooties”, rags tied for a
some 70 in the area. A wish or a blessing. VISITING THE BURREN
further 2 km (1 mile) south After 4 km (2 miles), Tourist Information
is Caherconnell Stone Fort turn right on the Kinvarra Village Stores, Main Street,
(www.caherconnell.com; visitor road, then left at the next Ballyvaughan 065 707 7464;
centre open mid-Mar–Oct). junction (4 km/2 miles). www.ballyvaughantourism.com
Such ring forts were common After a further 2 km The Burren Centre
from the 5th century. (1 mile) turn right for Kilfenora, 065 708 8030;
Turn right on leaving the Killinaboy and Corrofin, www.theburrencentre.ie; open
fort, then left at the next staying left when the road Mar–Oct
junction, up Magga Hill forks. After 4 km (2 miles),
and down into Carran Sign at the Burren a large grey house with EAT AND DRINK
(5 km/3 miles). Turn left Perfumery bay windows was the
after Cassidy’s pub and location for the popular BALLYVAUGHAN
then right, signposted to Boston TV sitcom Father Ted, and serves tea Monk’s moderate
A cosy place with several small bars.
Gort. After 1 km (half a mile) turn left and cakes by appointment. Leaving Has a well-deserved reputation for
for Burren Perfumery (open daily; www. here, turn right and at the next seafood, with dishes such as fried
junction turn left to skirt the Atlantic fishcakes and Island Eddy
The Burren southern flank of Mullaghmore. This clams. Great views over Galway Bay.
The vast limestone pavement of the area is rich in plants and a walk is Old Pier, Ballyvaughan; 065 707 7059;
www.monksballyvaughan.com
Burren – what Cromwell’s surveyor recommended (a full circuit of the
described as “yielding neither water mountain will take about 2 hours). THE BURREN
enough to drown a man, nor tree Afterwards return to the first junction Vaughan’s Pub moderate
to hang him in, nor soil enough to after Father Ted’s and turn left to Landmark pub known for its music in
bury” – extends across the whole of Kilfenora. Traditional menu featuring
northwest Clare until it gives way to Killinaboy (4 km/2 miles), with a seafood chowder, bacon and cabbage,
the black shale and sandstone of round tower and church. From here, and a splendid beef and Guinness pie.
the Cliffs of Moher in the southwest. turn left onto the R476 to Corrofin, Main Street, Kilfenora; 065 708 8004;
for the 14-km (9-mile) drive to Ennis. www.vaughanspub.ie
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Take the N85 from Ennis and follow the Aillwee Cave, then head on to the
Ennis or Ballyvaughan make ideal drive’s instructions around the coast. 5th-century ring fort at Caherconell.
bases to explore the dramatic north Pause at the Burren Perfumery for
coast and rocky land of the Burren. A day in the Burren restorative floral scents and make a
Ballyvaughan 8 is the gateway to wish at St Colman’s Well. Then take
Coastal drama the Burren 9, and it is possible tea at Father Ted’s house to gain
Head to the northeast tip of Clare’s to hire a bike, walk or drive through
coastline for a bracing walk at the the stark scenery, prehistoric remains energy for a walk on Mullaghmore –
a chance to appreciate the flora.
Cliffs of Moher 5, then stop in Doolin and unusual geological features of
6 for traditional music or continue to the region from the town. Stop off at From Ballyvaughan take the R480 and
Black Head 7 for stunning views. Aillwee Rock and the showcaves at R476 to reach the heart of the Burren.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

124-127_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 127 13/10/17 1:06 pm