Page 126 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

124 BACK ROADS IRELAND

VISITING ENNIS
Parking
Ennis is a small town and its narrow
streets get congested. All town-centre
parking is metered. There is a multi-
storey car park near Market Place.
Tourist Information
Arthur’s Row (off the main square);
065 682 8366; open Tue–Sat
VISITING SCATTERY ISLAND
Dolphin Discovery sails from Kilrush
Creek Marina Apr–Oct, subject to tides;
065 905 1327; www.discoverdolphins.ie
WHERE TO STAY IN ENNIS
Above Vandeleur Walled Garden, the last remnant of Kilrush House
Banner Lodge inexpensive
Eight-room guesthouse offering a high 1 Ennis maritime traditions. Its Heritage
standard. Located in the centre of Ennis. Co Clare Centre (open May–Sep: daily) has an
Market St; 065 682 4224
This is Clare’s largest town, located exhibition about the Great Famine.
Newpark House inexpensive midway between the Shannon Estuary Vandeleur Walled Garden (open
Stylish period house dating from 1650, and the Burren. Straddling the River daily), just outside the town (drive
in a beautiful woodland setting. It is
2 km (1 mile) east of Ennis, off the R352. Fergus, it retains a winding medieval clockwise around the main square
Roslevan; 065 682 1233; street pattern either side of O’Connell and turn right off Moore Street,
www.newparkhouse.com Street, named after following signs for the
Temple Gate Hotel inexpensive Daniel O’ Connell, the garden) was once
Modern hotel off Ennis main square. first Catholic MP to sit part of Kilrush House,
Comfortable, convenient, good value. in Westminster, in 1828. seat of the Vandeleur
The Square; 065 682 3300; His statue stands in family. The house was
www.templegatehotel.com
O’Connell Square. demolished in 1973.
Old Ground Hotel moderate The ruins of Enclosed by lovely
An 18th-century building in the centre 14th–15th-century old stone walls, the
of Ennis with spacious, elegant rooms.
and superb dining (see opposite). Franciscan Ennis Friary Colourful mural on a pub garden was restored
O’ Connell St; 065 682 8127; (open May–Oct) on Abbey in Ennis to its former glory in
www.flynnhotels.com Street are noted for their the 1990s and is now
rich carvings and decorated tombs – noted for its tropical plants.
Below The creeper-clad ruins of Ennis Friary, above all, the McMahon tomb. On the Drive back to the main square in
dating from the 14th century corner of Francis Street, is the Queen’s Kilrush and take Frances Street off the
Hotel, featured in James Joyce’s square. This long broad street leads
Ulysses. The town is also renowned for down to Kilrush Creek Marina, from
its painted shopfronts and folk music where there are boat trips on the
festivals or fleadhs. To find out more Shannon Estuary to see Ireland’s only
drop into the Glór Music Centre, on resident bottlenose dolphins and
Friar’s Walk, or the Tourist Information excursions to Scattery Island, 2 km
Centre and Clare Museum (open Jun– (1 mile) offshore.
Sep: Mon–Sat; Oct–May: Tue–Sat). ª Board a boat at the marina (see left).
ª Take the R473 towards Clarecastle,
turning right 2 km (1 mile) before the 3 Scattery Island
town. Follow signs for Ballynacally Co Clare
along the Shannon Estuary. Continue This tiny island boasts a 6th-century
on the R473, through Labasheeda , monastery, founded by St Senan, five
Kilmurry and Knock, until Killimer, churches and a 300-m (100-ft) high
then join the N67 to Kilrush. round tower, still relatively intact
(unusually, its main door is at ground
2 Kilrush level). On the north of the island are
Co Clare the remains of a gun rampart from
Cill Rois (“church of the promontory”) the Napoleonic Wars (1799–1815).
is a designated Heritage Town, in ª Return to Kilrush. From the town’s
recognition of its legacy as an 18th- square, take the N67 west, signed to
century estate town with strong Kilkee (23 km/14 miles).
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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