Page 197 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 19: Mayo’s Coastal Splendour 195

Above left Matt Molloy’s in Westport Above
The former home of the Earls of Patrick Information Centre at the centre Statue of St Patrick at the foot of
Altamont (open mid-Feb–Oct: daily) has base of the mountain to make the Croagh Patrick overlooking Clew Bay Above
a sweeping marble staircase and is ascent, which takes about two hours, Madonna and Child icon on Croagh Patrick
adorned with family portraits. It has followed by a 90-minute descent.
embraced tourism, with swan At the foot of Croagh Patrick, on EAT AND DRINK
pedalos on the lake, a petting zoo, the other side of the R335, is the
and a minature railway. The gardens National Famine Memorial, a WESTPORT
are peaceful and worth a wander. harrowing depiction of one of the McCormack’s at the Andrew Stone
The harbourfront near the entrance so-called “coffin ships” that carried Gallery inexpensive
has restaurants, pubs and craft shops. Irish emigrants to North America as Above McCormack’s butcher shop. The
ª Turn right onto Quay Road, sign­ they fled the Great Famine (1845– menu includes quiches, cakes, bacon
and cabbage, soups and Irish stew.
posted Louisborough, then R335. Drive 52). The terrible conditions on the Bridge St; 098 25619
8 km (5 miles) west to Murrisk. Park by ships often led to death and disease. An Port Mór moderate
the Croagh Patrick Information Centre. ª Return along the R335 towards Classy food at affordable prices made
Westport. Just before Westport, turn by a French-trained patron/chef.
Mayo’s Pirate Queen left onto the N59 (north). A few Brewery Place; 098 26730;
In the 16th century, a pirate called kilometres (miles) after Westport www.anportmor.com
Grace O’ Malley, or “Granuaile”, look for a sign pointing left to The Pantry & Corkscrew moderate
pretty much ruled the roost from Rosscahill Pier (7 km/4 miles). Run by a husband-and-wife team, with
her power base on Clare Island. scrummy food; try Irish fish tempura.
With her fleet of 20 ships, she 3 Rosscahill Pier Peter Street, The Octagon; 098 26977;
belligerently defied Elizabethan Co Mayo www.thepantryandcorkscrew.com
forces, eventually gaining the A narrow but well-paved road leads CROAGH PATRICK
respect of Elizabeth I herself. The
remains of her strongholds can be to an inlet on Clew Bay. Across the The Tavern Bar and Restaurant
seen around Clew Bay and on Achill tranquil stretch of water is one of inexpensive–moderate
Island. She died in Newport in 1603. the best views of Croagh Patrick – Family-run restaurant at the foot of
Croagh Patrick. Seafood is the speciality.
magical on a clear summer’s evening. Murrisk; 098 64060;
ª Return to the N59 and continue www.tavernmurrisk.com
2 Croagh Patrick north to Mallaranny. Keep left on the
Co Mayo R319 signposted Achill, passing Below View across Clew Bay towards Clare
Ireland’s most sacred mountain, through Polranny to Achill Sound. Island from Atlantic Drive
Croagh Patrick occupies a peculiar
place in the Irish psyche. St Patrick,
who is credited with bringing
Christianity to Ireland in the 5th
century, is said to have fasted and
prayed on its summit for 40 days.
Every year on the last Sunday in July
– known as Reek Sunday – up to
40,000 pilgrims trek up its rocky
slopes, many in bare feet.
The ascent to the 765-m (2,510-ft)
summit is steep, with a scramble
over loose, shifting scree on the
upper half. However, the sweeping
view over Clew Bay, with its confetti
of islands, is ample reward. Pick up a
stout walking stick from the Croagh
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive over €50

194-197_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 195 13/10/17 1:06 pm