Page 199 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland
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DRIVE 19: Mayo’s Coastal Splendour  197


                                                        Left Carrick Kildavnet, a 15th-century base of
                                                        the pirate Grace O’Malley

                                                         OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
                                                        Achill Outdoor Activity Centre
                                                        provides an extensive programme of
                                                        outdoor activities and water sports,
                                                        with a strong emphasis on education.
                                                        It caters for small and large groups,
                                                        and also provides accommodation
                                                        (Cashel-Bunacurry; 098 47253;
                                                        www.achilloutdoor.com). Blackfield
                                                        Surf School rents out surfboards,
                                                        wetsuits and equipment, and offers
       9 Keem Bay              0 The Deserted Village   surfing instruction at all levels (Keel
                                                        Beach; 087 249 5175; www.blackfield.
       Achill Island, Co Mayo  Achill Island, Co Mayo   com).  For individuals, Keel’s seasonal
       After Dooagh the road rises   This is an eerie village, strung along   tourist information office, by the
       dramatically. At the peak is a lay-by   the southern slopes of the   beach, can provide information on
       with views of the pincer-shaped   Slievemore Mountain. The Great   lake water sports as well as scuba
       beach at Keem Bay, nestling at the   Famine almost certainly played a   diving, pony trekking and sea
                                                        kayaking (contact details as for Cashel
       foot of the Croaghaun Heights, and   part in its abandonment, which was   tourist information office, see left).
       across to Achill Head. Descend to the   hastened when grants for fishing
       blissfully unspoiled sandy beach –   boats became available at the end
       the furthest west you can drive on   of the 19th century, and its villagers
       the island. Bring provisions.  were enticed away from the land
       ª Retrace the R319 to Keel. In the   to the sea.
       village is Minaun View Bar and petrol   ª Retrace the route to the bridge    EAT AND DRINK
       station. Fork left just before here and   and turn left. Keeping the slopes of
       then left again. Continue for 3 km    Slievemore to the left, follow signs to   KEEL
       (2 miles) to the Deserted Village.  Doogort (4 km/2 miles).  Beehive Café inexpensive
                                                        Informal café-cum-craft shop in Keel.
                               q Doogort                Menu includes home-made soups,
                               Achill Island, Co Mayo   sandwiches and seafood. Full licence.
                               Nestling in the shadow of Slievemore   Keel; 098 43134; open Mar–Nov
                               Mountain, the island’s highest point,   DOOAGH
                               this tiny village overlooks another fine   Gielty’s Coffee Shop inexpensive
                               Blue Flag beach. Opposite the   As the road rises up towards Keem
                               Cottage Coffee Shop, the Red Fox   Strand, this is the last opportunity for
                               Press sells hand-printed books and   refreshments. The busy, family-run
                               prints of Achill Island. Seals can be   restaurant is part of Gielty’s pub and
                                                        offers a variety of dishes.
                               spotted in the waters around the   Dooagh; 098 43119; www.gieltys.com
                               northern tip of Achill, while amethyst
                               is found in the mountains here. From   DOOGORT
                               Doogort, follow signs for Bunacurry   The Cottage Coffee Shop
                               but turn left for Bulls Mouth 3 km    inexpensive
                                                        Just opposite the beach in Doogort,
                               (2 miles) before it for a secluded   this excellent, family-run café provides
       Above The secluded Golden Strand at Bulls   beach. From Bunacurry, the R319   inexpensive home cooking.
       Mouth, between Doogort and Bunacurry  leads back to Achill Sound.  Doogort; 098 43966; open Easter–Sep
        DAY TRIP OPTIONS       Westport 1, where it is easy to   Beach Life
        For a gentle day laced with books, art   while away a morning browsing in   From Achill Sound 4, take Atlantic
        and music, spend some time in and   bookshops and galleries. After lunch,   Drive 5 to the beach at Dooega,
        around Westport. To make the most   drive west for an afternoon hike up   carrying on via Minaun Heights 6
        of Mayo’s beaches, spend a day on   Croagh Patrick 2 for views over the   to Keel 7 and its beach, ending up
        Achill Island, starting at Achill Sound.  bay. Return to Westport for a drink   at Dooagh for drinking and music.
                               and a traditional music session.
        Culture and Conviction                        Follow the drive route from Achill
        Spend a day exploring the perimeter   Follow the drive route from Westport to  Sound, taking the R319 along the spine
        of island-dotted Clew Bay. Start at   Croagh Patrick and back again.  of the island for a direct route back.

                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive over €50


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