Page 198 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

196 BACK ROADS IRELAND

4 Achill Sound steadily to a viewing bay overlooking
(Gob an Choire) Ashlean Bay and north to Achill
Co Mayo Head, then descends into a series of
Islands in the west of Ireland have a hairpin bends, looping around the
special allure for the Irish. Often seen as small pebbly beach of Portnahally
the repository of a lost way of life, they before climbing the other side of the
remain potent symbols of the past. valley. At the next T-junction, turn left
Achill Island is no exception. Ireland’s to continue along Atlantic Drive and
largest island at 24 km (15 miles) long into Dooega, a picturesque, fishing
and 19 km (12 miles) wide, it is village with a Blue Flag beach.
connected to the mainland by a ª Minaun Heights loom large above
causeway. It has sandy beaches, Dooega – to drive to the top, turn left
dramatic cliffs, boglands and heathery immediately after Mickey’s Pub.
slopes. Over the years it has inspired
Above Keem Bay, beneath the Croaghaun artists and writers, including German 6 Minaun Heights
Heights on the west side of Achill Island writer Heinrich Böll, American painter Achill Island, Co Mayo
Robert Henri and painter Paul Henry. The road to Minaun Heights climbs
VISITING ACHILL ISLAND
The road bridge spans the narrow, steadily. Pass a school, take the next
Tourist Information winding strait at Achill Sound – a left and follow the road as it swings
Cashel; 098 47353; good place to stock up. Facilities here right over a small bridge, skirting the
www.achilltourism.com include an ATM, Internet access, a slopes of Mweelin Hill. Turn left at the
supermarket, hotels and restaurants. junction and drive up for views of
WHERE TO STAY ª On the island side of Achill Sound, Clare Island to the south west and
proceed for about 500 m (500 yards), Black Sod Bay to the north.
ACHILL SOUND then turn left off the R319, following ª Return to junction, turn left and go
Achill Island Hotel inexpensive signs for Atlantic Drive and Cois na along Mweelin road to R319. Follow it
Just before the causeway for Achill Farraige (“Road by the Sea”). to Cashel and Keel 3 km (2 miles) on.
Sound. Rooms have good views.
Achill Sound; 098 45138;
www.achillislandhotel.com 5 Atlantic Drive 7 Keel
Achill Island, Co Mayo Achill Island, Co Mayo
ATLANTIC DRIVE After 6 km (4 miles) the road skirts Keel is known for its white sandy
Lavelle’s Seaside House inexpensive the southern tip of the island and beach, framed by the soaring sea
Good-value B&B. Mickey’s, the bar next
door, serves sublime crab claws. the remains of an 18th-century cliffs of Minaun Heights, and is
Dooega; 098 45116; church and holy well, named after backed by a large lake, popular for
www.lavellesseasidehouse.com St Damhnait, an early Christian saint. water sports.
The graveyard looks across to Little ª Continue west on the R319 for a
KEEL Achill Island (Achill Beg). Nearby is couple of kilometres (miles) to Dooagh.
Achill Cliff House Hotel moderate Carrick Kildavnet, an almost intact
Family-run hotel with sweeping views
and a good restaurant. example of a 15th-century tower 8 Dooagh
Keel; 098 43400; www.achillcliff.com house, built by the O’ Malley clan Achill Island, Co Mayo
(see p195). From the pier there are fine Just west of Keel is the tiny village of
Bervie moderate
Guesthouse in the former coastguard views across the sound to Corraun Hill. Dooagh, which has a nice beach and
station. Has direct access to the beach. At Cloughmore, as the still waters several good cafés. Gielty’s, a popular
Keel; 098 43114; www.bervieachill.com of Achill Sound give way to Atlantic pub at the west end of the village,
breakers, some of Ireland’s most hosts traditional music sessions.
Below Stopping the traffic on the Slievemore spectacular coastal scenery unfolds. ª Continue on the R319 to Keem Bay
Mountain Below right The Deserted Village For 6 km (4 miles) the road rises (3 km/2 miles).

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