Page 95 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 7: Tipperary’s Holy Glen 93

From the car park turn right along
Castle Street to the main square,
designed by the Victorian architect EAT AND DRINK
William Tinsley, and turn left along
Church Street for a medley of shops CAHIR
and cafés. At its end is St Paul’s, a The River House
Church of Ireland chapel also designed inexpensive–moderate
by John Nash in the early 1800s. Opposite the castle, this restaurant
ª Turn right from the car park and offers breakfast and lunch in a relaxing
drive to the top of Castle Street and setting. Good for homemade soups
and salads. View of castle from the
the main square. Turn left at the upper floor.
junction, following signs for Clonmel 1 Castle St; 052 744 1951; closes 5pm;
(16 km/10 miles). www.riverhouse.ie
Lava Rock moderate
Above The Main Guard in Clonmel, built as a 8 Clonmel Modern and bright restaurant offering
courthouse by the Earl of Ormonde Co Tipperary mouthwatering plates like crayfish
This is Tipperary’s most important brûlée and oven-roast quail.
Castle St; 052 744 5359; www.
and turn left towards a second gate. market town and its bustling lavarockrestaurant.com; closed Mon
Through the gate veer right. The well atmosphere makes it a pleasant
is marked by a “rag tree”. According place to stroll around. Like many CLONMEL
to local legend, water from the well towns in the area, it was besieged Befani’s Mediterranean & Tapas
will not boil; it also protects from fire. by Cromwell in 1650, but was one Restaurant moderate
Stylish restaurant that is popular with
ª Continue in the same direction to of the few places that put up serious locals and discerning diners. The food
the N24. Turn right for Cahir. Park just resistance. The medieval West Gate is bold and flavoursome with such
past Cahir Castle, across the bridge. (rebuilt in 1831) leads to O‘Connell mainstays as cassoulet sausage and
Street, the main thoroughfare. A duck confit. Also provides
7 Cahir stone plaque in the gate accommodation.
6 Sarsfield St; 052 617 7893;
Co Tipperary commemorates Laurence Sterne, www.befani.com
The main attraction of this market author of the early comic novel
town is Cahir Castle (open daily), an Tristram Shandy, who was born in
Anglo-Norman stronghold of the Clonmel in 1713. Halfway down Below Quayside walk in Clonmel, a lively
Butler dynasty, Earls of Ormonde. It O’Connell Street, in Mary Street, St market town on the River Suir
was a formidable defence, although Mary’s Church contains one of the
Cromwell’s army breached its walls in oldest organs in Ireland, stained-glass
1650. The foundations, curtain walls windows by William Tinsley and
and keep are 13th-century; much of remnants of the original city walls.
the rest dates from the 15th and 16th At the east end of O’Connell Street,
centuries. Don’t miss the magnificent Main Guard, built as a courthouse in
Great Hall and the ramparts. 1675, houses the Tourist Information
A 2-km (1-mile) walk along the Centre (open Mon–Fri). Nearby, off
River Suir (signposted from the back pedestrianized Mitchell Street, Abbey
of the car park) leads to the Swiss Street leads to the Old Quay, where
Cottage (open Apr–Oct) a cottage the Franciscan Friary retains a 15th-
ornée designed by Regency architect century tower. At the end of Mitchell
John Nash for Richard Butler in 1810, Street, Emmet Street leads to Mick
and conceived as an ornamental Delahunty Square, with a statue of
retreat where the earl could entertain Clonmel’s favourite son, the tenor
guests. By the car park, Inch Field has Frank Patterson (1938–2000), and the
a fine view of the castle. County Museum (open Tue–Sat).

DAY TRIP OPTIONS rock. Be sure to get there early to Holy glen and holy wells
Cashel is the ideal base to explore avoid the crowds. Afterwards take in Combine a walk through the Glen of
the area’s two highlights. Cahir 7, a market town with a Aherlow Nature Park 3 with a drive
Fortified rock superb castle, or the historical town through its main valley, stopping at
One of Ireland’s top attractions, the of Clonmel 8. ruined abbeys, holy wells, villages
Rock of Cashel 1 is a fortified and megalithic tombs.
cathedral with towers, turrets and a From Cashel take the M8 to Cahir and
round tower rising straight out of the then the N24 to Clonmel. Follow drive’s instructions from Cashel.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive under €25; moderate €25–€50; expensive over €50

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