Page 92 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

90 BACK ROADS IRELAND

1 Cashel Back in the car park at the foot of the
Co Tipperary rock, the Brú Ború Cultural Centre –
All royal and ecclesiastical ruins in named after Brian Ború, a 10th-century
Ireland fade into insignificance when king of Munster – charts the history of
compared with the Rock of Cashel Irish culture, and holds traditional
(closed 24–26 Dec). Visible from afar, music, song and dance performances.
this tight cluster of turrets and towers ª From the car park, turn left and then
soars majestically above the vales of left again onto the main Dublin–Cork
Tipperary. From the 4th or 5th century road. Turn right and drive through
it was the seat of the Kings of Munster, Cashel. At the end of the High Street turn
whose kingdom extended over much right and left onto the R505. At the first
of southern Ireland. Legend has it that roundabout turn left onto the N74. After
St Patrick baptized Aengus, King of 6 km (4 miles), just past the village of
Munster, here in AD 448. In 1101 Golden, turn left just after Bridge House
Cashel was handed over to the Church. pub. Shortly after the priory comes into
It flourished as a religious centre until view, 1.5 km (1 mile) from the turning,
Cromwell’s army sacked it in 1647. pull into a lay-by on the left, just past
From the car park, Bishop’s Walk leads some stone pillars.
to the 15th-century Hall of the Vicar’s
Choral, built for Cashel’s top choristers. 2 Athassel Priory
Above The dramatic Rock of Cashel tops a It now houses the ticket office and an Co Tipperary
craggy limestone outcrop audiovisual presentation on the site. In From the stone pillars a path leads
the museum on the lower floor, look over a bridge and through the old
out for St Patrick’s Cross; its base is gate lodge of the priory. Founded in
believed to be the coronation stone of 1192 by the Anglo-Norman knight
the Munster kings, and the carving William de Burgh, this Augustinian
on the east face depict St Patrick on priory (open daily) was once the
his visit to Cashel in 450. Opposite largest in Ireland. Its walls still stand,
the Dormitory of the Vicar’s Choral is and the church has an aisled nave,
St Cormac’s Chapel, a Romanesque a choir and transepts with a 15th-
VISITING CASHEL masterpiece with superb carvings century tower over the crossing.
on the tympanum, containing the Look for a carved face protruding
Parking sarcophagus of Cormac the Bishop, from the tower.
There is a pay car park at the foot of a 12th-century King of Munster. ª From the stone pillars, retrace the
the Rock of Cashel, next to the Tourist The largest building on the Rock is route to Golden and then take a left
Information Office.
St Patrick’s Cathedral, burned in 1495 turn onto the N74, following signs
Tourist Information by the Earl of Kildare and again by a towards Tipperary. Once in Tipperary,
Main St, Cashel; 062 61333; www. Cromwellian army, when 3,000 take the R664 off Main Street. Follow
cashel.ie; open daily; Nov–Feb: Mon–
Fri only townfolk seeking sanctuary were the road for a short distance then turn
roasted to death by Lord Inchoquin, right at a traffic island, following
Brú Ború Cultural Centre
Cashel; 062 61122 ; http://bruboru.ie; one of Cromwell’s generals. Look out signs for the Tipperary Golf Club.
open mid-Jun–Aug: Tue–Sat, Sep– for the panels of three 16th-century Continue to the Christ the King statue
mid-Jun: Mon-Fri tombs in the north transept of the and the entrance to the Glen of
cathedral, decorated with intricate Aherlow Nature Park. Park at the foot
carvings of vine-leaf designs and of the statue.
WHERE TO STAY IN CASHEL stylized beasts. Next to the cathedral,
the 28-m (92-ft) Round Tower dates Below The ruined 15th-century tower, nave and
Ashmore House inexpensive from the early 12th century. choir of Athassel Priory
Georgian townhouse with home
comforts. The rooms are bright and Beyond the ramparts of the Rock
spacious, and some have views over (a 2-km/1-mile walk across the fields)
the award-winning garden. is Hore Abbey, which affords one of
John St ; 062 61286; the best views of the Rock.
www.ashmorehouse.ie
In Cashel itself, in the grounds of the
Cashel Palace Hotel expensive Protestant cathedral on John’s Street,
Set within peaceful gardens, this is the Bolton Library. Owing to the
was once the archbishop’s palace. poor conditions within, the library’s
Centrally located with high quality rich collection of antiquarian books
accommodation and impressive
attention to detail. was transferred to Limerick University
Main St; 062 62707; in 2016; meantime, an exhibition on
www.cashel-palace.ie the history of the library is planned.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

090-093_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 90 11/09/17 12:29 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont