Page 129 - homestyle New Zealand (February - March 2020)
P. 129

Design destination ——  LIVING







                                                                                                               LEFT Looking across the
                                                                                                               bay to Beppu at sunrise, the
                                                                                                               steam billowing from the city’s
                                                                                                               many onsens looks industrial,
                                                                                                               but it’s actually completely
                                                                                                               natural, emanating from the
                                                                                                               hot springs they harness.










                                                                                                               In eras past, Oita — a prefecture on
                                                                                                               the island of Kyushu in south-western
                                                                                                               Japan — was known as Toyo no kuni,
                                                                                                               meaning ‘land of abundance’. The term
                                                                                                               was coined to reflect the vast array of
                                                                                                               food on offer from the mountains and
                                                                                                               the sea, and the concept still resonates
                                                                                                               today. This area is indeed a beautiful
                                                                                                               setting in which to experience abundant
                                                                                                               delicacies, as well as hot springs and
                                                                                                               hospitality — the combination a recipe
                                                                                                               for some serious rest and relaxation.
                                                                                                                 The coastal city of Beppu alone is home
                                                                                                               to about 2000 onsens with a combined
                                                                                                               hot-spring output greater than any
                                                                                                               other area in Japan. Public steam baths,
                                                                                                               ryokans (inns) with intimate bathing
                                                                                                               facilities, mud baths, sand baths where
                                                                                                               you can be buried in heated sand… you
                                                                                                               can experience it all.
                                                                                                                 Culinary culture and bathing rituals
                                                                                                               aren’t the only thing Oita is known
                                                                                                               for, though. There’s a legacy of arts and
                                                                                                               crafts here that a new wave of artisans
                                                                                                               is adopting to carve out an alternative
                                                                                                               way of life for themselves outside of
                                                                                                               the main centres.
                                                                                                                 My host on this trip was Eiko
                                                                                                               Hashimoto, a producer at the Oita
                                                                                                               Asahi Broadcasting Corporation; I
                                                                                                               tapped into her knowledge of the region
                                                                                                               to visit makers, food producers and
                                                                                                               hospitality specialists who have found
                                                                                                               their creative calling here. We teamed
                                                                                                               up with Oita Made — an initiative
                                                                                                               developed to revitalise the creative
                                                                                                               economy by stocking independent
                                                                                                               artisans’ products in a dedicated store
                                                                                                               and supporting their distribution —
                                                                                                               to visit the studios and workplaces
                                                                                                               of some of the people they champion.
                                                                                                                 In Beppu, Cotake — the workshop
                                                                                                               and store of Mikiko Sato — is a great
                                                                                                               place in which to observe bamboo
                                                                                                               crafts in action. Mikiko specialises in
                                                                                                               fine bamboo jewellery and also sells
                                                                                                               a range of intricately woven baskets,
                                                                                                               trays, kitchenware and decorative
                                                                                                               objects. The skill involved in splitting
                                                                                                               a hollow round of bamboo into the
                                                                                                               thin strips required for weaving is
                                                                                                               really quite something to witness. >


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