Page 108 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sardinia

106  SARDINIA AREA B Y AREA

with stylized figures are woven shrikes and various birds of prey.
on antique vertical looms and The forest has holm oaks and
then sold on the premises. maples, while in the spring the
Perched on a spur over- undergrowth is enlivened by
looking the village is the brightly coloured cyclamen,
sanctuary of Nostra Signora di peonies and morning glory. The
Gonare, one of the most sacred road ends at an open space with
shrines in Sardinia. The church pilgrims’ houses (cumbessias),
was built in the 13th century for and a winding footpath up the
the ruler of the principality, bluff through the holm oak forest
Gonario II di Torres, and by the leads to the sanctuary. From
16th century it had already here there are marvellous views
become a famous pilgrimage of Monte Ortobene towering
site. The sanctuary was over Nuoro, Monte Corrasi near
The village of Sarule as seen from the enlarged in the 17th century Oliena, and the Gennargentu
nearby hills with a dark stone exterior and mountains in the distance.
austere buttresses. From 5–8 September a
7 Sarule To reach the sanctuary, a lively festival takes place at
rough road heads east from the sanctuary for the Madonna
Road map C3. * 1,840. n Town
Hall (0784 760 17). _ 8 Sep: Sarule and climbs up Monte di Gonare, to which pilgrims
Madonna di Gonare. ∑ comune Gonare for 4 km (2.5 miles). travel on foot from all of the
sarule.gov.it This granite rock mountain neighbouring villages. As well as
is interspersed with layers religious festivities, a horse race
Sarule is a village of medieval of limestone and outcrops of is held, and the square resounds
origin which has preserved its schist covered in vegetation. with poetry readings and sacred
tradition of carpet-weaving. The mountain slopes are songs sung in traditional dialect.
Along the main street you can populated by many species
still see the workshops where of birds, including partridges,
these vividly coloured carpets turtle doves, woodpeckers,
Traditional Festivals in the Barbagia
S’Incontru, the
procession held in
the streets of Oliena
on Easter Day,
commemorates the
resurrection of Christ
and his sub sequent
encoun ter with the The sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Gonare
Virgin Mary. The statues at Sarule
of Virgin Mary and Christ
are carried to the main
square. The statue of 8 Mamoiada
Virgin Mary is covered in The carnival Mamuthones at Mamoiada
a mourning veil, which is removed at the end of the procession Road map D3. * 2,700. n Town
to reveal a blue dress to symbolise the joy of resurrection. On this Hall (0784 560 23). _ 17 Jan,
occasion, and during the festivities in honour of San Lussorio on Carnival Sun & Shrove Tue:
21 August, you can admire the colourful traditional costumes and Mamuthones procession.
watch the impressive procession of horsemen ∑ comune.mamoiada.nu.it
through the streets of the town.
At Mamoiada the lively celebrations on the Some old buildings, possibly of
night of Sant’Antonio Abate (17 January), Shrove Aragonese origin, are still visible
Tuesday and the last night of Carnival, all revolve among the modern houses that
around the figures of the Mamuthones and line the main street of Mamoiada.
Issohadores. The former wear tragic masks In 1770 the town was mentioned
and shepherds’ garb, with a set of cow bells by the Savoyard viceroy, Des
tied on their backs. The bells jangle in time
with their rhythmical steps as they go Hayes, as a place of some interest
through the village to the main square, with numerous vineyards and
where there is music and dancing all evening. an exceptional number of sheep.
The Issohadores, with their red waistcoats, are Flocks are still taken every
more colourful: they “capture” spectators summer to the slopes of Barbagia
Woman in traditional costume and drag them inside the circles di Ollolai to graze. Mamoiada is
on Easter Day in Oliena of the tradi tional round dance. best known for the dark, forbidd-
ing masks of the Mamuthones,
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp177–8 and pp187–8

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