Page 188 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Japan
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EXPERIENCE MORE




        3 "                   THE BENTO BOX
        Toji Temple
                              A bento is a take-home meal in a compartmentalized box:
        東寺                    office workers buy them for lunch, schoolchildren eat
                              from them at their desk, and business travelers buy them
      EXPERIENCE  Kyoto City  691-3325   @ 42 to Toji   bullet train. In its compartments there will invariably be
         B5   ⌂ 1 Kujyomachi,
                              at stations, such as Kyoto’s, to enjoy with a beer on the
        Minami-ku   § (075)
                              a portion of rice, a main serving of meat or fish, pieces of
        Higashimon-mae; 19 & 78
                              omelet, some vegetables, and
        to Toji Minamimon-mae;
                              pickles. But part of the
        16 to Toji Nishimon-mae
                              charm of the bento is that
        # 8am–5pm daily (to
                              anything goes. You may
        4:30pm winter)
        Although it lacks the mossy
                              a small octopus or
        beauty of many Kyoto temples,   open a bento and find
                              a tiny whole fish
        dusty Toji (actual name Kyo-o-  gazing up at you.
        gokoku-ji) impresses by the
        sheer weight of its history. Its
        Buddhas have been watching
        over the city ever since Kukai   his attendants Gakko and   Kukai is remembered on the
        founded the temple in 794.   Nikko, are enshrined in the   21st of each month, when
        The city’s religious foundations   two-story Kondo (main hall).   a flea market is held in the
        were laid here, and echoes of   First built in 796, the present   temple precincts. Many shop-
        bygone rituals seem to linger   structure dates from 1603     pers take time out for a brief
        in Toji’s hallowed halls.  and is considered a master-  pilgrimage to the Miei-do,
          Kukai turned Toji into the   piece. Rebuilt in 1644, Toji’s   where they offer money and
        main headquarters of Shingon   magnificent five-story   incense, some rubbing the
        Buddhism. The sect’s rituals   pagoda – at 180 ft (55 m)     smoke onto whatever body
        relied heavily on man dalas,   the tallest wooden pagoda    part is troubling them.
        and in the Kodo (lec ture hall),   in Japan – has become a
        21 statues form a mandala, at   symbol of Kyoto. Inside are
        the center of which is Dainichi   images of four Buddhas
        Nyorai, the cosmic Buddha   and their followers.  4 "
        who first expounded the      Northwest of the Kodo    Kyoto National
        eso teric teachings. About   is the Miei-do or Taishi-do   Museum
        1,200 years old, these and   (great teacher’s hall) where   京都国立博物館
        other major images were   Kukai lived. It houses a Secret
        carved from single   Buddha, a Fudo Myo-o image,    D5   ⌂ 527 Chayamachi,
                                                Higashiyama-ku   @ 100,
        blocks of wood.     shown on rare occasions, as   206 & 208 to Hakubutsukan
          Statues of Yakushi   well as an image of Kukai. A   Sanjusangendo-mae
        Nyorai, the Buddha    National Treasure, the graceful
        of healing, and        structure dates from 1380.  # 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sun (to
                                                8pm Fri & Sat)   ∑kyohaku.

                                                go.jp/eng/indextop.html
                                                The city’s National Museum
                                                was established in 1895 and is
                                                noted for its pictorial works,
                                                including Bud dhist and ink
                                                paintings, textiles, and Heian-
                                                period sculptures. Special
                                                exhibitions are held in the
                                                Meiji-era brick building to
                                                the right of the entrance.
                                                The five-story wooden
                                                pagoda in the grounds
                                                of Toji Temple



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