Page 193 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Japan
P. 193

GEISHA, GEIKO, AND MAIKO
         Despite the fact that the profession, dating from   A maiko’s hair
         the 17th century, is in decline and blurred by the   is her own, not
         activities of so-called onsen geisha and others   a wig.
         who offer more sex ual than classical arts, geisha
         still tread the streets of Kyoto. Known as geiko
         (child of the arts), their enclaves are  Gion-kobu,   The white face
         Pontocho, Miyagawa-cho, and Kamishichi-ken.    and red lips are
                                                        classic Japanese
                                                        ideals of beauty.
         GEIKO AND MAIKO COSTUME
         Less polished than their geiko “sisters,”
         maiko, apprentice geisha, are a Kyoto-only
         phenomenon. They wear their hair in a
         distinctive style, with ornamental hair pins,
         and sport a unique costume featuring a
         long, hanging obi (sash), tall koppori clogs,
         and an under-kimono with an embroidered          Under-
         collar. When becoming a fully fledged geiko,     kimono
         they exchange the embroidered collar for a
         white one in a transition known as eri-kae.
         PERFECT PERFORMANCES
         Geishas’ knowledge of traditional arts, skill
         at verbal repartee, and ability to keep a
         secret win them the respect, and some-
         times love, of their well-heeled male clients.
         The geisha world moves to the rhythm of
         the shamisen, a three-stringed instru ment
         that originated in Okinawa. Poised and
         posture-perfect, the geisha dance to this
         eery sound, sometimes using a fan as a prop.
         Geisha who choose not to specialize in dance
         will instead master the shamisen or another    Tabi
         instrument, and play throughout their life.    socks

                      A maiko wearing her traditional
                       costume before she becomes        Koppori
                           an accomplished geiko         clogs


              INSIDER TIP
              When to Visit
           If you want to see
           geisha, the best time
           to visit Kyoto is April.
           Every day of this month,
           geisha in Gion-kobu
           stage perfor mances,
           and the Miyagawa-cho
           district holds the Kyō
           Odori dance. For small-
           scale shows, head to
           Kamishichiken in the
           last two weeks of April
           for Kitano Odori.
                                A geisha playing a shamisen with
                                her teacher as another looks on



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