Page 134 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Stockholm
P. 134

132      M ALM ARNA   &  FUR THER  AFIELD

       8 Fotografiska
       Stadsgårdshamnen 22. Map 4 C5. Tel
       08-509 005 00. @ 2, 3, 53, 76. 
       Slussen. Open 9am–11pm daily (Thu–
       Sat: to 1am). 8 & 7 = - 0
       ∑ fotografiska.eu
       Housed in a former industrial
       Art Nouveau-style building
       dating from 1906, Fotografiska
       has 5,500 sq m (59,200 sq ft) of
       exhibition space and is one the
       world’s largest hubs of contem-
       po rary photography. World-
       renowned names such as Annie
       Leibovitz and David LaChapelle   Sofia Kyrka and Vita Bergen park with its 18th-century cottages
       are represented, alongside
       unestablished photographers.   0 Spårvägsmuseet   altar fresco by Hilding Linnqvist
       Fotografiska also curates four   Tegelviksgatan 22. Map 9 F3.    with themes from the Old
       major exhibitions and 20 smaller   Tel 08-686 17 60. @ 53, 55, 66.    and New Testaments. The
       exhibitions per year. There is an   Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri,   interior acquired its present
       innovative experiential restau-  11am–4pm Sat & Sun. 8 by appt. &   appear ance as part of a major
       rant by Paul Svensson, and    7 = - ∑ sparvagsmuseet.sl.se  renovation in the early 1980s,
       the top-floor café offers one of        when the layout of the church
       Stockholm’s best viewing points.   The Tram Museum, Spårvägs-  was radically altered.
                           museet, covers the develop-
                           ment of the Stockholm public
       9 Fåfängan          transport system, SL, from the   w Vita Bergen
       Map 6 A5. @ 53. - J  horse-drawn buses of the 19th   Map 9 F3. @ 2, 3, 66, 76.
                           century to today’s high-tech
       Fåfängan, at Södermalm’s    underground trains. Visitors can   Vita Bergen (White Moun tains)
       most easterly point, provides a   try out old and new trams and   is best known as a park, largely
       grand stand view of the boats   buses for comfort and can   because of Swedish TV
       using Stockholm’s harbour.   experience a driver’s-eye view   broadcasts from its open-air
         The hill and its park were   of the city traffic on film.  theatre. But it is more than
       given the name Fåfängan in the          just a park. Houses for workers
       1770s. The wholesale merchant           at Söder’s harbours and
       Fredrik Lundin owned the area   q Sofia Kyrka   factories were built on and
       at that time, and he built a   Vitabergsparken. Map 9 F3. Tel 08-   around the hill top in the 18th
       pavilion, which still stands on   615 31 00. @ 3, 4, 76. Open 11am–   century. They were simple
       the hilltop in a square garden   5pm daily. 5 6:30pm Thu, 11am Sun.   homes, often with a small
       filled with flowerbeds. The word   8 by appt. 7 = Concerts 3pm Sat.   garden and surrounded by a
       “Fåfängan” (“Vanity”) origin ally   ∑ svenskakyrkan.se  fence. In 1736 the building of
       denoted an area of land that            new wooden houses was
       was not worth using. But in   High up on Vita Bergen,   forbid den because of the fire
       Stockholm it has a special   surrounded by a leafy green park,  risk, but the slum districts were
       meaning: “The pavilion on the   is Sofia Kyrka, named after Oscar   exempted. As a result, areas
       hilltop with a marvellous view.”    II’s consort and built in 1902–6.  such as Bergsprängargränd still
       It is a delightful place for a coffee      The 35-year-old architect   have houses that have retained
       break while exploring Söder.  Gustaf Hermansson, who had   their original character and give
                               already designed several   a good idea of life in bygone days.
                               churches, including     Around 1900, when Sofia
                               Oscars kyrkan at   Kyrka was built, the area was
                               Östermalm, created a   turned into a leafy hillside park.
                               monumental design   This was complemented to the
                               with both National   east by an area of allotment-
                               Romantic and Gothic   garden cottages. Towards
                               influences and tall spires.  Malmgårdsvägen is the 300- year-
                                 Three windows by   old Werner Groen Malmgård
                               Olle Hjortzberg are all   (suburban mansion). The park
                               that remain of the   has a bronze statue, Elsa Borg
                                original decorations. The  (1972), by Astri Bergman Taube,
       Horse-drawn tram from the 1890s on   early 1950s saw the   wife of the great troubadour
       display in Spårvägsmuseet  addition of the large   Evert Taube (see p59).




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     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
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     Date 12th July 2013
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