Page 77 - Travel + Leisure India & South Asia (January 2020)

MERCADOS AND MEATS Valluerca, a guide with Devour Madrid, “may
From left: Tapas
originated as Madrid loves its meats. Ham, or jamón, comes in
complimentary uncountable varieties. Sardines are dressed in olive
accompaniments to oil and served on slices of bread. Anchovies are
wine; Mercado de
San Miguel is one everywhere, and salted cod, or bacalao, hang like
of the best places to streamers on food stalls. Shrimps sizzle in olive oil,
buy jamón. crab is made into cakes, octopuses are staple. Chicken
and mutton are rare to find here, but beef is abundant.
FROM LEFT: GOODLUZ/ALAMY; IMAGE PROFESSIONALS GMBH/ALAMY
Suckling pigs and lambs, roasted whole, are delicacies.
Stews made with pork and beef are revered. With all the
meat around, it may seem like Madrid is no place for
vegetarians, but its fresh produce remains some of the
best in the world. Ever heard of Spanish oranges, olives,
tomatoes, and pimentos?
Owing to its unique location, Madrid has access to
the freshest fruit and vegetable produce of the Iberian
Peninsula. Cheese is abundant, as are fresh herbs. And
no one can deny the charm of Spanish wine—made from
Rioja grapes, it is easily the finest vegetarian product of
the country. The best places to find fresh produce are
the mercados of Madrid. They are also great alternatives
to traditional restaurants for experiencing authentic
local cuisine. “Market culinary experiences,” says Paula
be better options if you want smaller bites
and larger variety.”
While there are quite a few markets
in the city, Mercado de San Miguel
(mercadodesanmiguel.es) remains the most
iconic. I visit it on a sunny day. A man, dressed
in a crisp white chef coat and black apron,
carves wafer-thin slices of a cured Iberian
ham. He then places each slice on a plate as
if decorating a delicate bouquet. Meanwhile,
a middle-aged woman places small pieces
of bread on paper plates. Some have pieces
of fish on them, some are topped with roe,
some are dressed in sliced octopus, and some
others with cheese. Two young men swiftly
refill glasses with wine, vermouth, beer,
and sangria, while some sprightly girls offer
bocconcini and pesto salads off a pretty stand.
Tarts, churros, and chocolates call out to the
child in me from a corner of the market.
A 100-year-old iron and glass structure
in the middle of the Old Town, Mercado
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