Page 82 - Travel + Leisure India & South Asia (January 2020)
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R O A D TR IP  The Cape Less Travelled


               Road-trippers, take note: a spectacular route around the
               farther-flung reaches of the South African peninsula is

               coming into its own. And with its stylish, singular hotels

               and first-rate food and wine, you may want to plan a trip
               now—before the rest of the world arrives.
               BY LISA GRAINGER






                      used to be that visitors to Cape Town
                IT    who wanted a taste of the wine and wild
                      coastal landscapes outside the city would
               tack on a road trip through the beloved Garden
               Route. But over the past decade or so, the Garden
               Route, which runs around the southern tip of
               South Africa from Mossel Bay to Port Elizabeth,
               got a little crowded. These days, tuned-in
               travellers are heading inland, to the agricultural
               heartlands of the Cape and its lesser-known
               southern shores—home to some of the most
               appealing hotels in South Africa, as well as
               traditional farming villages, fashionable new                                  With the easy-to-navigate Route 62 (route62.co.za)
               restaurants, and award-winning vineyards.                                      at its heart and a host of quaint guesthouses at
                                                                                              which to spend the night along the way, this trip
                                                                                              showcases a quieter, more characterful side of
                                                                      The seven-room          the region. Starting and ending in Cape Town,
                                                                      Lekkerwater             I sampled the western half of the route last May
                                                                      Beach Lodge is

                                                                      the first high-end      for five sun-soaked days.
                                                                      property to open
                                                                      in South Africa’s
                                                                      De Hoop Nature          DAYS 1–2:
                                                                      Reserve.                CAPE TOWN TO DE HOOP
                                                                                              NATURE RESERVE
                                                                                              Driving southeast out of the city on the N2, I was
                                                                      Cape Dutch
                                                                      architecture at         struck not only by the quality of the roads and
                                                                      Jonkmanshof, a          roadside farm shops, such as Peregrine (peregrine
                                                                      boutique B&B            farmstall.co.za), near the town of Grabouw, and
                                                                      in Montagu.
                                                                                              the delightfully old-fashioned Napier Farm Stall
                                                                                              (fb.com/napierfarmstall), but how extraordinary
                                                                                              the landscapes in this part of the world are. As I

                                                                                              wound through the Overberg region, field after

                                                                                              field and orchard after orchard stretched towards
                                                                                              the horizon, framed by dramatic mountain peaks.
                                                                                              It doesn’t surprise me that when Dutch and
                                                                                              French traders stopped here in the 17  century
                                                                                                                                  th
                                                                                              to resupply their ships, they didn’t leave.

                                                                                                 About five hours into my drive, I turned in
                                                                                              to De Hoop Nature Reserve—and immediately
                                                                                              spotted a herd of rare bontebok, a type of antelope
                                                                                              with distinctive white markings. The animals
                                                                                              were taken aback by my presence, because until
                                                                                              Lekkerwater Beach Lodge (`17,000 per person,             ADRIAAN LOUW
                                                                                              all-inclusive; natural  selection.travel) opened in this





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