Page 78 - Travel + Leisure India & South Asia (January 2020)

L O C A L F O OD A fried squid chorizos, tortillas, mussels—the variety of
sandwich at
Plaza Mayor.
Madrileños indulge
in a light snack in
the evening called
la merienda.
de San Miguel had its phoenix moment a few years ago
when the dilapidated building was restored. Its historical
significance, prime location, and unique architecture
make San Miguel one of the most popular food haunts
in the city. Every morning, locals throng the stalls to
stock up on fresh produce brought in from across Spain.
By noon, the shoppers clear up, and the stage is set for
diners—a mix of locals and tourists.
The market peaks in the afternoon. Tables are full,
diners queue up outside stalls, and servers sprint to
fulfill orders. Here, popular brands rub shoulders with
artisanal stands. Tapas, pinchos, salads, enchiladas, ham,
74 TR AV E L+LE I S U R E IND I A & S O UTH A S I A | J A N U A R Y 20 20
food is mind-boggling. The trick is simple:
get in a queue, pick up small portions from
everywhere, and try everything!
After the gluttony at lunch—at a mercado
or otherwise—it is time for a siesta. Madrid
likes to rest in the middle of the day. The
siesta, say the locals, prepares them for the
long night ahead: one that starts at a coffee
shop and ends at a tapas bar.
LA MERIENDA
As the golden rays of the setting sun illuminate
the columns of the Museo Nacional del Prado
(museodelprado.es), madrileños start to trickle
out of their homes and workplaces. The
city with a culture of late dinners spends its
evenings—or afternoons as they are called
here—indulging in merienda, a light meal or
snack that’s almost a ritual in Madrid.
In recent years, the Spanish capital has
seen a rise in modern cafes that boast edgy
spaces and believe in personally roasting
and grinding organically grown coffee
beans. Madrid’s speciality, however, remains
its old-fashioned coffee shops nestled in
small neighbourhoods and barrios. Elderly
men leaning on walking sticks, silver-haired
women with their girlfriends, groups of
school kids, and families with toddlers
descend upon these neighbourhood jaunts
for la merienda like clockwork.
Late afternoons in Madrid are for café
con leche. One part espresso and one part
foamed milk, café con leche is, in a manner
of speaking, the national coffee of Spain.
Traditional coffee bars use old-fashioned
espresso machines to brew frothy espresso
and top it with foamy milk. While adults
indulge in cups of joe, the younger ones fill
up on churros and chocolate. Meanwhile,
French bread with jamón remains the
classic accompaniment. And, if you are
lucky, the server may hand you a plate
of complimentary chips, too. Don’t go
overboard asking for a refill though: it will
be politely refused.
TAPAS
The plate of gambas al ajillo (Spanish garlic FROM TOP: AGE FOTOSTOCK/ALAMY; HEMIS/ALAMY
shrimp) arrives on my table, still sizzling.
Pale and smoky, the oil emanates a strong
aroma of garlic. I’m dining at Cerveceria La
Cruz De Malta, in the old quarters behind
Madrid’s famed shopping avenue of Gran Vía.