Page 121 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 11: The Veneto Plain 119

ª Once in the hills, follow one of many 7 Abbazia di Praglia
signs to Arquà Petrarca along winding Teolo, Veneto; 35037
roads. Follow sign for “Arquà Alta: This pretty Benedictine abbey (closed
centro storico” up the hill to the car park. Mon; www.praglia.it), set in gorgeous
countryside, was founded in the 11th
5 Arquà Petrarca century and renovated in the 15th and
Veneto; 35032 16th centuries. A monk-led tour reveals
This utterly charming town – with how the brothers restore ancient
steepish, paved streets leading past books and grow herbal products for
Venetian-Gothic stone palaces – is sale along with cosmetics and honey.
named after the great medieval Italian It is possible to stay here overnight.
poet Petrarch, who spent his final ª Drive north to SP89, turn right to join
years here. Visit his lovely house, Casa SS250. Through Tencarola, head into
di Petrarca (closed Mon), which has his Padua (around SR47), right on Via
mummified pet cat on display. Shops Castelfidardo, then right on Via Cernia, Above Cappella degli Scrovegni, Padua,
sell giuggiole (the jujube fruit) steeped and left to park at Prato della Valle. Giotto’s masterpiece Below left Prato della
in liqueur as well as local wines. Valle, Padua, Italy’s largest square Below
ª Head in the direction of Padua on 8 Padua (Padova) right The thickly wooded Euganean Hills
the SP16 and, 2 km (1 mile) on, branch Veneto; 35100
left onto the SP25 for Valsanzibio. There’s plenty to see here, from the
Park outside the villa’s entrance. Prato della Valle – Italy’s largest square VISITING PADUA
– to the country’s second-oldest Tourist Information
6 Valsanzibio university, the Palazzo del Bo, founded Galleria Pedrocchi, 35100; 049 820
Veneto; 35030 in 1222 and visited on a fascinating 1676; www.turismopadova.it
Spend an afternoon exploring these guided tour (Mon–Sat) that takes in
exquisite Baroque gardens (open Galileo’s rostrum and a 16th-century
Mar–Nov; www.valsanzibiogiardino.it) anatomy theatre. A short stroll away EAT AND DRINK
created in 1669 for the Venetian is Piazza delle Erbe, where a market VERONA
noble Zuane Francesco Barbarigo (Mon–Sat) is held. Nearby, too, is the Antica Bottega del Vino expensive
on shady terraces that appear to Duomo, partly built to a plan by Try the risotto all’Amarone, a rice dish
grow out of the hillside. Fountain Michelangelo, and frescoed baptistry. with the robust local Amarone wine.
after fountain is draped with Classical Don’t miss the gardens of the Orto Via Scudo di Francia 3, 37121; 045 800
allegorical statues, and water games Botanico (closes 3pm in winter), close 4535; www.bottegavini.it; closed Sun
Nov–Mar
amuse young and old alike, as does to the Basilica di Sant’Antonio, a
a maze of box shrubs. The house, major destination for pilgrims. Padua’s MONTAGNANA
Villa Barbarigo, is of a simple design major art attraction is the Cappella Il Ristorante Aldo Moro inexpensive
compared to the gardens. degli Scrovegni (advance booking The mouthwatering dishes include
ª Continue north on SP25 to essential; 049 201 0020; www. tortellini con zucca (pumpkin-filled
pasta) and oca al forno (baked goose).
Galzignano Terme. Turn left to a cappelladegliscrovegni.it), with Giotto’s Via G Marconi 27, 35044; 0429 81351;
T-junction and left again on SP99, then lyrical 14th-century frescoes of Bible www.hotelaldomoro.com; closed Mon
right for the winding ascent of Monte stories – a masterpiece of Western art. EUGANEAN HILLS
Venda, the highest Euganean Hill. Then ª Backtrack a little and follow signs to
carry on the descent into Torreglia, head the “tangenziale” northeast. After the Rifugio Re del Venda inexpensive
Enjoy grilled meats in a shady courtyard
left (towards Padua), turn left to Tealo, IKEA exit, follow signs for Venezia and at this country-style restaurant.
and follow signs for Praglia. SS11, turn left and follow signs to Stra. Via San Pietro 35, loc. Sottovenda,
Cinto Euganeo; 0429 94122; closed Mon
ARQUÀ PETRARCA
La Montanella moderate
Try the risotto alla quaglia (quail) and
papera alla frutta (duck baked with
fruits) followed by dessert.
Via dei Carraresi 9, 35032; 0429 718
200; www.montanella.it; closed Tue
eve, Wed & 6–16 Jan
PADUA
Ristorante Antico Brolo moderate
The signature food here is Fantasia di
baccalà, a special salt cod dish.
Corso Milano 22, 35139; 049 664 555;
www.anticobrolo.it; closed Mon lunch
& 1 wk Aug

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