Page 123 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 11: The Veneto Plain 121

Above left The Danieli Palace, one of Europe’s
Silvestro. This is San Polo, Venice’s Veneziano 9 (closed Tue). Cross Ponte most famous hotels Above centre Gondolas
smallest district, crammed with craft San Barnaba and the eponymous on Venice’s Grand Canal Above right One of
ateliers and shops, jewellers and square, and take Calle della Toletta to the arcades around Piazza San Marco, Venice
glassmakers. Following signs for the Gallerie dell’ Accademia 0 (closed
Ferrovia, turn left through Campo San Mon pm) in Campo della Carità. This
Aponal and on to Campo San Polo 4. former Palladian convent holds a
This spacious square once hosted priceless collection of 15th–18th
bullfights, but now is a favourite with century paintings by Titian, Carpaccio, EAT AND DRINK
local kids, who zoom about on their Giorgione and Bellini. Italy’s leading
bikes. During Venice’s prestigious gallery of early 20th- century art is RIVIERA DEL BRENTA
Film Festival, it is transformed into a nearby, after San Vio – the Peggy Osteria da Caronte moderate
huge open-air cinema. Guggenheim Collection q Enjoy traditional cuisine with a refined
touch at this riverside restaurant.
Pass the church and cross (closed Tue). Peggy’s former Via Dolo 29, Paluello di Stra, Dolo 30030;
Ponte San Polo to wind home, the Palazzo Venier dei 041 412 091; www.osteriadacaronte.it;
through the maze of alleys Leoni, houses key works by closed Tue eve, Wed, 2 wks Jan & Aug
from Campo San Tomà to Giacometti, Picasso and Pollock, Villa Nani Mocenigo expensive
Campo dei Frari 5. This square as well as a sculpture garden A sophisticated restaurant in a grand
is mostly taken up by the and terrace on the Grand Canal. villa on SR11 between Dolo and Mira.
towering brick Basilica di Santa From here, it is a short walk via Riviera Martiri della Libertà 113, 30031;
Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, the Campo della Salute to the old 041 560 8139; www.villananimocenigo.
it; closed Mon & Tue–Sat lunch
final resting place of the Mooring post, customs warehouse, reno-
Renaissance composer Claudio Grand Canal vated by Japanese architect VENICE
Monteverdi. Keep left to Tadao Ando into the gleaming Bar a Toletta inexpensive
Sotoportego San Rocco and over Rio Punta della Dogana w (closed Tue). It A humble snack bar frequented by
de la Frescada 6 into Dorsoduro. Turn now features contemporary works locals.Try the traditional venetian
left along Crosera San Pantalon, then from the collection of François Pinault. tramezzino (sandwiches).
Calle della toletta, 1191 Dorsoduro;
right, to cross the bridge to Palazzo Take the vaporetto from La Salute 0415 200 196
Foscari 7, possibly the birthplace of across to Venice’s famed Piazza San Osteria L’Orto dei Mori expensive
the great Doge Francesco Foscari Marco e and Doges’ Palace. If time An inventive Sicilian chef provides an
(r.1423–57). Continue through the allows, head out to the lagoon’s innovative take on local dishes.
peaceful square Campiello dei islands of Murano, Burano or Torcello Campo dei Mori, 3386 Cannaregio
Squelini 8 to Ca’ Rezzonico, a Gothic by vaporetto, otherwise return to 30121; 041 524 3677; www.
palace with the Museo del Settecento Piazzale Roma or Tronchetto. osteriaortodeimori.com; closed Tue,
2 wks Dec, 1 wk Jul & Nov
DAY TRIP OPTIONS back over and carry on to the Roman Basilica and Doges’ Palace. Hop on a
Verona and Venice deserve at least a arena, now a venue for open-air opera. vaporetto to get back to the car park.
day’s exploration, and the pretty Venice’s canalside treasures
Euganean Hills merit a day trip, too. Green delights
Take a vaporetto down Venice’s 0 From Este 3, drive into the Euganean
Performing arts in Verona Grand Canal to the Punta dell Dogana, Hills 4, through the vineyards, up to
In Verona 1, start at Piazza dei Signori then walk to the Peggy Guggenheim pretty Arquà Petrarca 5. Move on to
and Dante’s statue. Head to nearby Collection for modern art, before Valsanzibio 6 and its Baroque garden.
Juliet’s House and then cross the admiring the medieval works in the Lunch around Monte Venda, then on
River Adige to the Teatro Romano – Gallerie dell’Accademia. Lunch in a to Abbazia di Praglia 7.
where the Bard’s plays are still back-street osteria, then wander slowly
performed. Walk along the river to the to the Ponte di Rialto. Cross over and Follow the drive’s instructions to the
Ponte Scaligero footbridge. Cross walk to Piazza San Marco to see the Abbey, then return via SP89 and SP247.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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