Page 120 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

118 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Above left The Castello di San Pietro, on a hill
above Verona Above centre Giardini Dell’ 1 Verona Padua). At a medieval tower on the
Arena, in the heart of Padua Above right Veneto; 37100 right, turn left into Via Augustea. At the
Padua’s 13th-century Basilica di Sant’Antonio Top of most visitors’ list is the romantic crossroads, turn right into Via Schiavin
shrine Juliet’s House (Casa di Giulietta; to car park No.3 (Castello), in Via Vigo
VISITING VERONA 27 Via Cappello), the so-called home di Torre, just past the Tourist Office.
Visitor Information of the tragic heroine of Shakespeare’s
Via degli Alpini 9, 37100; 045 806 8680; drama. Close by is the impressive 3 Este
www.tourism.verona.it Roman arena, where crowds once Veneto; 35042
gathered to watch gladiator action Once the capital of the pre-Roman
WHERE TO STAY and, today, watch open-air opera. Veneti, Este was absorbed into the
Over the river are the Renaissance Roman Empire before being razed
VERONA Giardino Giusti (1580), with its hedges to the ground by Attila the Hun. The
Hotel Aurora moderate and paths, as well as the Museo Storia town rose again under local nobility,
This hotel has a lovely roof terrace Naturale (closed Fri), with displays of the Signori d’Este, who constructed
overlooking the central square. fossilized crocodiles and palm trees. its imposing castle (open daily). In
Piazzetta XIV Novembre 2, 37121;
045 594 717; www.hotelaurora.biz Climb up to Castello di San Pietro for 1405 it came under the protection of
glorious views of the city. West of the the Venetians. The Museo Nazionale
Hotel Torcolo moderate centre, San Zeno Maggiore Atestino (closed Mon) has evi dence
This charming, family-run place is in
a quiet street, but close to the arena. (1138) is a superb example of of this turbulent history. Este also
Vicolo Listone 3, 37121; 045 800 7512; Romanesque architecture. has a tradition of fine porcelain,
www.hoteltorcolo.it; closed end Jan–Feb ª Leave on SS11 east (signed especially good-quality hand-
MONTAGNANA Venezia) across river Adige. At decorated pieces.
Hotel Aldo Moro moderate San Bonifacio, turn right to SP7 ª Carry on along the walls to a
This provides top service and spacious through Arcole, Cologna Veneta roundabout and take 2nd right
rooms, as well as a delicious breakfast. and on to Montagnana. Follow onto SP6. Follow signs for Baone,
Via G Marconi 27, 35044; 0429 81351; signs to “stazione” and car park. then SP21 into the Euganean Hills.
www.hotelaldomoro.com; closed
2 wks Jan & 1–20 Aug
2 Montagnana 4 Euganean Hills
ESTE Veneto; 35044 Veneto
Agriturismo Barchessa moderate Before entering the town, The Colli Euganei is an area
Four self-catering apartments make up wander along the grassy Statue at the Casa di of beautiful rolling hills
this 18th-century villa. moat to admire the sturdy, Giulietta, Verona cloaked in woods full of wild
Via Cappuccini 9, 35042; 333 391 4733;
www.agriturismobarchessa.com red-brick castellated walls boar and deer. The volcanic
and 24 defensive towers erected by origins of these hills means fertile soil
ARQUÀ PETRARCA the town’s rulers between the 14th for crops and vines, and quarries that
Alloggio Franciscus Agriturismo and 18th centuries. All four massive yielded the trachyte used for paving
inexpensive gateways lead to the main square and the streets of Venice. Wildflowers
These are country-style rooms
in restructured farm buildings. 15th-century Duomo, which holds abound and there are special pock-
Via Valleselle 20, 35032; 0429 718 245; works by Renaissance masters Paolo ets, such as Monte Ceva, where mini
www.enotecadaloris.it Veronese and Giorgione. Be sure to prickly pears grow. Rewarding walks
try the local prosciutto and, perhaps, abound (for maps of routes – in
PADUA the stracotto d’asino (donkey stew). Italian – visit www.parcocollieuganei.
Albergo Verdi moderate
A central hotel with bright rooms. ª From the car park, turn right along com). At the foot of the hills are spa
Via Dondi dell’Orologio 7, 35139; 049 the walls. Around the corner, turn right resorts such as Abano and
836 4163; www.albergoverdipadova.it at the traffic lights on the SR10 (towards Montegrotto Terme.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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