Page 129 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 12: Dolomites to Veneto Hills 127

into the trench on the slope, brightly
flowered in summer. Signs point out
rest areas, observation points and
artillery positions. At the end of the
first line of trenches 3, turn right to
go down the reconstruc ted timber
steps, which conclude at a covered
area. Fork right and immedi ately left
again. A little way up the hill, veer
right to the signs for return 4 indica­
ting the route back up to Rifugio
Scoiattoli. Approaching the rifugio,
take the left fork along the grassy
ridge towards the foot of the dramatic
rock towers, whose sheer cliff faces
attract many climbers. own this path
to the welcoming Rifugio Cinque
Torri 5. A quiet road leads downhill
to the northeast, offering views of the
majestic Sorapiss mountain. The way
forks left and enters shady conifer
woods where squirrels and roe deer
are not uncommon. About 20 minutes
further on, when the path veers right, Top Dramatic cloud-topped Dolomites above
follow the northwest road signed Bai ª Continue through Tai di Cadore, the Pieve Valley Above left Statue of the artist
de Dones. This pretty route meanders taking SS51bis to Pieve di Cadore. Titian, favourite son of Pieve di Cadore
amid alpenrose shrubs and pine trees, Above right View of a mountain village in
before reaching a small lake 6. Close 4 Pieve di Cadore the Dolomites Below Casa di Tiziano, Titian’s
by are the café, chair lift and car park. Veneto; 32044 home in Pieve di Cadore
ª Leave Cortina d’Ampezzo on SS51, Pieve di Cadore stands at the foot
go past Zuel and onto Dogana Vecchia, of the Marmarole mountain range. EAT AND DRINK
the old customs point between the A statue in the main square recalls CORTINA D’AMPEZZO
Habsburg Empire and Italy. San Vito its native son Titian, the foremost El Zoco moderate
is the next main town. painter of the 16th­century Venetian Top Italian cuisine and excellent wines.
school. His pretty home, Casa di Via Cademai 18, 32043; 0436 860 041;
Outdoors in the Dolomites Tiziano (open May–Sep), has been closed Mon, Apr–May & last 2 wks Nov
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, maintained as a small museum. Ristorante Tivoli expensive
these spectacular mountains in the ª Head back towards Tai di Cadore Refined Italian cuisine with one Michelin
far northeast of Italy are a superb and branch left on SS51 past Longarone. star and a superb panoramic terrace.
destination for skiing in winter and Exit for Ponte nelle Alpi and follow signs Via Lacedel 34; 0436 866 400;
climbing and trekking in summer. for Belluno “centro”. Follow signs for www.ristorantetivoli.it; closed Mon &
Aided climbs known as vie ferrate Tue lunch, Easter–Jun & Oct–Nov
criss­cross the sheer rock faces and Nevegal and from Piazzale Nevegal,
a network of paths link rifugi, or take the way indicated for Faverghera. NEVEGAL
mountain huts, which provide The car park is located at the top. Ristorante La Casera inexpensive
refreshments in the summer season. Offers delicious rustic food, such as
5 Nevegal polenta with sausage and mountain
cheese, and pasta with wild mushrooms.
Belluno, Veneto; 32100 Via Faverghera 751, 32100; 0437 908
3 San Vito di Cadore On an elongated ridge marking the 180; closed Mon; booking advised
Veneto; 32046 end of the mountains and the start of
Dramatic Monte Antelao, at 3,264 m the Veneto plain, this tiny village is
(10,709 ft) the highest mountain in surrounded with dairy farms and ski
the eastern Dolomites, rises over the slopes. A 30­minute walk from the car
village of San Vito di Cadore, while park leads to the Giardino Botanico
breaks in the trees afford inspiring delle Alpi Orientali (open mid-Jun–
views of the Pelmo massif. Further mid-Sep; closed Mon except Aug).
along the SS51, at Valle di Cadore, the ª Return to Piazzale Nevegal and
Chiesa di San Martino occupies a high return to SP1. Across the river, fork
promontory, the site of an ancient right for Belluno “centro”. Follow signs
castle. Near the valley floor is the to the Lambioi car park and take the
covered wooden Ponte di Rualan. escalator (scala mobile) to town centre.

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